by Julian Schultz
julian@oxfordwineroom.com
Chef Vehemente Volateili at
the Villa d’Este in Chernobbio, Italy, said angrily, “Don’t cross over bridge
until you get to other side.”
For 28 years, always when I attend an Italian wine dinner or read about one,
Volateili’s words haunt me. And neither my late brilliant wife Lillian – I.Q.
160 – nor I could fathom the meaning – the depth? -- of his words.
Webster House Restaurant’s Tuscany wine dinner, showcasing the internationally
renowned prestigious wines of Castello Banfi, mentally transported me back to
our Sweet Life Foods wine dinner at the Villa d’Este, playground for the
European jet set.
Unabashed disciple of Bacchus that I am, I was exultantly present among some 40
jolly bacchants and bacchantes where we paid homage to the wines of Banfi and
then sipped away on seven of its premier wines at the Webster House this late
September evening; they were combined with six courses of Italian Tuscany
“autumn foods.”
I was the restrained and temperate bacchant. Such dull behavior, foreign to my
cavalier conduct at wine affairs, disconcerted me at first. I ate and sipped in
a manner most moderate, remembering fair Lillian’s warning of dire discomfort
later from over indulging and necessitating my sour-faced sipping of hot
peppermint/baking soda cocktails.
When I entered the upstairs festive function Worcester Room, Chef John
Hammerstrom cheerily greeted me: “For you, my fussy friend, Julian, there will
be n-o-o-o-o garlic! But first…first you must agree.”
“No garlic? No evil bulb? You swear?...I’ll agree to anything,” I promised.
“That’s it! That’s it!” Chef John exclaimed. “You must agree not to discourse on
the ‘evil bulb’ during the dinner to aficionados who cherish this harmless,
healthful herb that lowers blood pressure and cholesterol, stiffens the – unh –
and frightens vampires away.”
“Gee, John, I prefer vampires to garlic and willingly will forgo whatever it is
that garlic stiffens. But you remind me of the chef at the Villa d’Este in
Chernobbio, by Lake Como, in Italy. He also forced my agreement if I were to be
spared the powerful pungent perfume of the seasoning, inhibiting to close
conversation and lip to lip smootching.” I related the Villa d’Este incident:
I had organized a 10-course dinner for some 170 Sweet Life supermarket
executives and wives and had planned the courses to be paired with premium
French wines. That is, until I confronted the Master Chef imperious Vehemente
Volateili: I had been warned that I would be dealing with a tyrannical chef who
becomes infuriated at suggestions about how his dishes might be prepared and the
wines that should be paired with them.
At my suggestion that we pour dinner wines – not including any of Italy -- and
our fish be prepared moist, our meat medium-rare, sauces light and lightly
seasoned…and above all…no...garlic…in…anything – it was like Mt. Vesuvius
erupted again:
His fierce, bushy black eyebrows quivered in anger; his flaring nostrils were
set in snarl; he chewed vehemently on his prominent handlebar mustache, trying
to prevent himself from insulting a guest who had brought a substantial
income-generating group to his very expensive hotel.
“You not tell Master Chef how food is prepared!...You some kinda chef, too? My
kitchen is most famous all over Europe. So don’t…you don’t cross over bridge
until you reach other side!”
His insistence was peremptory: Only wines from Italy’s extensive growing regions
– from Piedmont to Sicily – would accompany the food. Otherwise, he threatened
fiercely, I could expect total saturation of the malodorous evil bulb in my- and
Lillian’s food.
Lillian hastily apologized, saying that strong spices and, especially, pungent
garlic made me ill. She smiled disarmingly and coquettishly patted Vehementi’s
hand. Mollified, but scowling unforgiving of me, he nodded and smiled at
Lillian, “Not to worry, dear pretty lady. For you, Volateili will be at
Volateili’s best:
“I will create wine dinner masterpiece, a beautiful Italian Venus of Milo
dinner, and recipe will hang proud over kitchen sink…for to remember.” Glaring
at me, he continued, “For you nice lady, I pour wine from grape; for this man,
he get grape from wine.”
Lillian smiled back at him and dutifully thanked him. We glanced at each other
uncomprehending: wine from grape for Lillian, grape from wine for me. Huh?
Lillian whispered, “He thinks back to front, downside up, dipsy-doodle
convolution.”
The Italian wines Volateili selected were superb…and I was spared the strong
spices and the pungent big G. Unfortunately, however, I was able to kiss only
Lillian, not the other ladies as is my custom, who this evening ingested a
generous infusion of the bulbous herb in their food and whose pungent breath
wafted through the dining room, reminding me of playmates inhabiting Jurassic
Park.
I was told later that Vehementi prides himself – and is renowned – for his
delicately prepared food and that his accents of herbs, spices and garlic are so
subtle that they are undetectable to the most discerning palates…Sez who!?
Chris Liazos’ Webster House Italian wine dinner: I cannot recall ever dining
more joyously at any time, at any place, than at this wine dinner, in every way
comparable to that at the Villa d’Este.
The dinner: I was told the tasty hors d’oeuvres were special Italian smoked,
herbed and Mozzarella cheeses, sliced plums and – gasp! – Italian kosher pork
sausage with a variety of crisp lightly seasoned, including novel, sweet
crackers.
Fiery eyed, I sought Chef John in the domain of his spotless kitchen: “What in
hell is with this Italian ‘kosher’ pork sausage!?”
John, taken aback by the onslaught, said lamely, “Chris, I think, or was it your
friend Dr. Bob who said the hog pigs had been circumcised and bar mitzvah-ed…I
know noth…ing! Noth…ing! So you can eat it and still make it to heaven when the
time comes. If you go to hell, it won’t be because of the Italian kosher pork
sausage.”
“Thank you very much, John,” I said dryly, and returned to my lively table of
Telegram & Gazette buzzing writer Rod Lee and his wife Marie, niece and nephew
David and Sandy Meltzer, Paidor Schlickmann and my vivacious guest Ms. Arline
McGoldrick…absent the Italian kosher pork sausage.
Accompanying the hors d’oeuvres were welcoming wines Castello Banfi Centine Rosé
2005, and the sturdier, more full-bodied Red 2004, both $7.99 after O’Hara’s
customary generous 20-percent discount on all wines poured at these dinners.
The Centine reds comprise 60 percent Sangiovese, 20 Cabernet Sauvignon and 20
Merlot. They are bright ruby-red youthful wines, intensely fruited with
lingering finishes, nicely balanced with smooth textures; excellent
price/quality values.
Guest Arline of discerning palate offered an immediate resounding “go for it” to
my query, should I buy three rose’s?
The delicious varied tastes of the three cheeses and the fleshy, juicy sliced
plums interacted nicely with the flavors of the two reds.
Appetizer antipasto was different from others I have eaten and was as enjoyable
as the best. Its colorful ingredients of fresh Mozzarella cheese, marinated
button mushrooms, two preparations of herbed artichokes, tender fried baby
calamari, red and orange tomatoes touched with basil, black and green olives,
and creamy white bean dip with crisp dry toast were paired with Banfi’s Le Rime
2005, $7.99, a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio.
The delicious assertive flavors of the antipasto and La Rime gave- and received
added flavor nuances to- and from each other. I suggested that table companions
avoid the salty olives that would impair the true flavors of the wine.
Initially sharp and acidic, both of these disconcerting elements evaporated
after about 15 minutes in the glass. Replacing them were delightful aromas and
flavors of peach, apricot and crisp citrus, finishing with smooth texture,
refreshing balancing acidity and sustained aftertaste; for $7.99, trot to
O’Hara’s to treat yourself with a bottle or two or three.
Chris approached me contrite and full of apology, protesting that he had nothing
to do with the Italian kosher pork sausage. He added, “John said then, if I,
Chris, weren’t guilty it must have been Dr. Bob.”
I reassured Chris that Dr. Bob Ouellette is my friend and his extensive
knowledge of wine, anesthesiology and hospital pain clinics, unfortunately, does
not extend to what kosher is and to what kosher is not. So I will let the matter
drop and permit my physician friend to enjoy his Italian kosher pork sausage
with my eyes-rolling holy blessing.
The first of three sensational entrées followed: Eggplant, stuffed with
delicious tasty Parmesan cheese and other complementing mildly seasoned
ingredients in Ann Leone’s classic Italian recipe, was accompanied by Banfi’s
Col di Sasso 2004, $7.99, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese.
Although the wine showed deep ripe fruit and big imposing body, I found it
off-putting with searing sharp acidity and penetrating bite for the first 15
minutes…Hallelujah! After reposing neglected in the glass for some 15 minutes,
Arline announced to all, “The bite has lost its teeth and the acidity has become
a blunted wimp…and the initial ugly duckling has become your beloved Aflac --
well, a graceful swan. You should buy three.” I did.
The eggplant was out-and-out sensational. I believe I overheard Chris promising
a group of imploring palateers that – “yes!” “Yes!!” – he would add it to his
every day dinner menu. So generous was the portion served that many of us of
fainter innards took some of it home for next evening dining. (It was just as
delicious this evening at home.)
Came the outstanding course of the evening: the forever memorable generous
seafood lasagna Florentine, comprising scallops, shrimp, salmon, spinach folded
with Italian cheese varieties, topped with delicate red and white sauces and
delectable pasta.
Although surfeited from the large-portioned antipasto and eggplant courses, I
found it impossible not to make reckless inroads on the lasagna to my now
bulging belly. Soon, like other palateers, I asked for a take-home container.
The escorting wine, Banfi Chianti Classico 2004, $11.99, good as it was, was
outshone by the lasagna. Notes about the wine: bouquet of black fruits and
violets; rich flavors of cherry and leather; supple tannins and good acidity;
lush fruit, fruit acids, texture, tannins, alcohol all in sync for perfect
balance.
Notwithstanding my having agreed upon the Chianti at the trial dinner, upon
dining alone at home in solitary splendor and relaxed reflection, I retasted the
Le Rime white wine with the lasagna and preferred it over the Chianti with the
fish/shellfish stuffed lasagna, although the Chianti may have both Malvasia and
Trebbiano white wines in the blend.
Came the anti-climax. Rack of veal: medium rare marinated tender roasted chops
with mustard vinaigrette and rosemary/Chianti reduction sauce, served with
smashed Parmesan flavored potato and stuffed zucchini. The presentation was of
artistic splendor, the flavor an Olympian delight. The veal’s complex flavors
from the varied accompaniments generated murmurs of pleasure.
Always too generous Chris, decided that two top drawer super Tuscany wines must
grace the veal: Banfi Chianti Classico Riserva 2003, $15.99, and the esteemed,
prized, revered Banfi Brunello di Montalcino 2000, $37.99.
I found the Brunello still much too young by comparison with the not-quite-fully
mature Chianti, which at this stage presages magnificence; in just a few more
years aging, it will afford considerably more pleasure. I bought six of the
Chianti Riservas, making my order with O’Hara’s: three rosés, three Col di
Sassos, and six Chianti Riservas.
Notes on the Riserva: The blend of Sangiovese, Trebbiano (white), Malvasia
(white), Canaiolo and Colorino grapes accounts for the Chianti’s unique bouquet
of violets and robust fruited flavors of spicy berries, cherries, and cooked
prunes; together with tar, cooked beef, some earthiness, we noted an unusual
early complexity; its dry slightly tannic flavors will soon turn soft and
velvety, making the wine even more delightful than it is at present.
Notes on the Brunello: Made from 100 percent Sangiovese Grosso grape, its huge
body and dry, warm, concentrated, slightly silky tannic flavors and hard spicy
berries, coffee, tobacco and nutty, woody tastes evoked gasps of surprise from
tablemates. We found it difficult to enjoy at this time as compared to the
softer presently more accessible Chianti Riserva. But give it another five
years…and then it will be like drinking in Paradise with 76 virgins.
Never disappointing, always diet busting delicious, Helena’s feather light
Italian Rum Cake with citron, chocolate, hazelnut and mocha glaze was a
devil-may-care, to hell with caloric restraint, gourmet cavalier’s swashbuckling
gormandizing delight. Some trenchermen with already protruding belly capacity
had the temerity to ask for, “Please, Helena, I want some more.” I didn’t look,
my not having the room to finish my own large slice.
Kudos to Horizon Beverage’s Stephen Bodell whose comments about Tuscany wine
interspersed the courses and considerably enlightened palateers unfamiliar with
the Tuscany grape composition, geography and vinification methods used in wine
making. Thanks, friend, and please come again.
And near last, but not least, congratulations to lovely, charming, wait staff of
dear Debbie Byrne and dear Patti Thomas whose perky presence added glow and
radiance to the evening. A big hug and a sweet kiss from me to you.
And last and least, O’Hara’s Jim Vasiliadis, Irish/Greek impresario who delivers
irresistible big wine bargains to the attending guests.
Wine Pick: Western Australia’s Goundry Offspring Shiraz
2003, approximately $15: ripe blackberry and pepper balanced by firm tannins and
soft acidity; smooth swallow, long aftertaste. Super wine, superb price value.
Wine Pick: Dry Creek Chenin Blanc 2005, approximately $11.50: Aromas of orange
rind, lemon zest, ripe pear and pineapple; flavors of green apple, candied
citrus, lemon/lime and grapefruit; balanced acidity. Just had it with baked
oysters Rockefeller: sensational!
Email Comments to Julian at:
julian@oxfordwineroom.com