Déjà
Vu Twice at The Restaurant at Union Station…
…at that grandly refurbished train station, both times bittersweet.
by Julian Schultz
julian@oxfordwineroom.com
Second time was last Monday, Columbus Day, and another The Restaurant
gourmet dinner, with- and recalling an unforgettable experience with Westport
Rivers’ wines…but without my Lillian.
A few years ago, four months before a flight of angels had sung my
beloved Lillian to her eternal sleep, Dr. Bob
Ouellette phoned: “Wednesday we’re going on an adventure—I, Lu, Lillian
and you.”
Afterwards when we were home, Lillian said -- typically Lillian – simply…no emotion…quietly, “This day will be a lingering memory of a lovely day. Thoughtful friends must never be taken for granted, Dear. I will phone Lu tomorrow, and you might thank Bob.”
I will repeat a portion of the wine column I wrote about that day.
Bob
said, “I’m not saying where we’re going, but dress is casual. We’ll
leave at 10:30. Now that wine tastings and dinners are into summer slumber,
it’s time for you and Lillian to do something different, time for you to get
away from your repetitive every day living. So I will not countenance
‘no’s!’ ”
We
traveled south on Route 146, no conversation about our destination. Millbury,
Sutton, Uxbridge, North Smithfield, Woonsocket. I told Bob and Lu about the many
small grocery stores in those towns that Sweet Life Foods serviced 50 years ago,
when I often rode with our sales reps to visit these Moms and Pop stores that
dotted every other street it seemed.
“Hey,
we’re entering Providence. I guess you’re taking us to some funky restaurant
there that I frequently hear about. Strange menu, wild food.” I looked at Bob,
questioningly.
He
shook his head, no: “You’ll know when we get there.”
“I’m
sure I’ll know when we get there,” I said chuckling.
We
rode through Providence. “Oh, we’re going to Newport---maybe to see Roland
Caron’s house by the ocean. But we’ve already seen it. Remember, we were
there a few years ago?”
Bob
laughed, shook his head, no. After traveling miles from Providence, Bob pointed
to a field. “See those?” he said, “That’s a hint to where we’re
going.”
“Rows
and rows of sweet corn stalks?” I said quizzically.
Lillian:
“No, Dear, they are grape vines. Don’t you remember when we were in Italy,
when we were permitted to walk among them?”
Yes,
I remembered; but I remained quiet, chagrined that I mistook grape vines for
corn stalks.
The
sign appeared: WESTPORT! The Westport River Winery. Acres and acres of flat land
covered with grape vines, leading to the Westport River. Bob pulled into the
parking lot. “What a magnificent facility!” I whispered to Lu. “It’s so
breathlessly quiet here you can almost hear the grapes as they ripen.”
“Now
we’re going to taste some wine,” Bob said, “and, as you know, this winery
makes world class sparkling wines and chardonnays that rate with the best.”
I
did know. I’ve tasted these wines. And world class they are, inarguably.
We roamed about the winery, exchanging pleasantries with the smiling, friendly, courteous clerks; reading the history of the place, studying the pictures of life long ago at the site. Fascinating.
We
decided to have lunch before tasting and went a few miles to a quiet little
restaurant comfortably nestled among tall trees, serving simple window takeout
meals for eating at its picnic tables. The hushed environment absent
commercialism, the whispering trees, the lush greenery, the warm sun, the clean
air… We were in a world of lazy rural beauty. A dreamy place split from
reality.
Clam
cakes, two coffees, one tea, for three of us; for Lillian, a heaping sundae with
everything – unusual for her disciplined diet. Then back to the winery.
Five
Westport wines to taste from among eight available with the purchase of an
embossed Westport Winery wineglass for $5. Big bargain what with the liberal
pours.
Estate
sparking wine RJR Brut Cuvée 1997, $34.95, an elegant blend of 25 percent pinot
noir and 75 chardonnay, offered rich toasty flavors, a nuance of fruit, a
pinpoint sparkle and a creamy mousse. “So who needs France?” I muttered to
Bob.
Blanc
de Blancs sparkling wine 1994, $39.95, 100 percent chardonnay, superbly dry,
crisp, clean, apple-fruited, toasty; tiny bubbles, creamy mousse, persistent
aftertaste. It confirmed its three Gold Medals awards and Chairman’s Award in
competitions.
We
were poured Estate Classic Chardonnay 1999, $17.95, a still wine, luscious with
aromas and flavors of apples, pears, vanilla, green apples, a hint of caramel.
Dry, clean, crisp, beautifully balanced; assertive, smooth swallow; forever
farewell. Superb wine, invitingly priced.
Signature
Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1996, $21.95, delivered cherry/ raspberry/cedar
aromas and flavors with balancing pepper and herbs. Bob and I agreed that its
light color, body and structure, lacking the assertiveness of macho cabs, would
be more popular with newcomers to red wines. A delicious summer picnic wine,
reminiscent of a rosé.
I
returned to Imperial Sec Riesling sparkling wine 1997, $28.95. Desiring a touch
of sweetness to end the tasting, I was pleased with this off-dry bubbly replete
with zesty flavors of peach, orange, apricot, sweet apple and with balancing
acidity. Yes, it merited its three Gold Medals awards.
The
winery is open daily from 11 to 5; phone (508) 636-3423. Bring a picnic lunch,
taste the wines, then buy a bottle and enjoy an unforgettable afternoon at their
picnic tables in relaxed surroundings.
As
my Lillian said, Westport Rivers Winery was indeed a lingering memory of a
lovely day… ironically, memorable and lovely for my Lillian but all too
four-months-short.
Now
to the wine dinner: As we entered the restaurant the smartly dressed smiling,
pretty waitstaff of Jody-Lynn Simonian, Peg Lindquist, and Kathleen Windward
warmly greeted each of us as familiar friends.
No
waiting, we paraded into the grand marble-floored concourse and served ourselves
from a colorful buffet antipasto of grilled lime and peach brochettes; a variety
of delicious ripe fruits; sweet, tender mission figs stuffed with goat cheese,
wrapped in Spanish Serrano jamon ham; a variety of artisan cheeses and tiny
organic tomatoes. Served at individual tables were platters – and second
servings, which were eagerly accepted -- of superb sherry marinated foie gras.
Perfect
escort: Westport Rivers RJR Brut Cuvée 1998 (mixed case special price $17.99,
at Austin Liquors; all prices shown reflect the mixed case discount price).
The classic Champenoise-styled sparkling wine -- 70 percent pinot noir
and 30 chardonnay grapes – with needlepoint bubbles, ripe fruit, subtle toast
and zesty lively acidity elevated our decibels of delight with the
antipasto/bubbly course. Additional waitstaffers swarmed about the tables
pouring generous refills to our enthusiastically proffered tulip shaped glasses.
Here,
there, and everywhere owner/manager Joe Petrou greeted us at the tables,
answered our questions, zoomed in and out of the kitchen to orchestrate the
service of the unhurried-paced, carefully prepared, artistically presented five
food courses. Joe, a hands-on guy, is genuinely appreciative of his guests’
patronage, does not take them for granted, is in evidence from their arrival to
their departure. Some fancy-schmancy Boston and Providence restaurants might
follow Joe’s example…and his superb savory food at purse-pleasing prices.
Ding-a-ling
Dolly Dooley called from across the room, “Hey, Julian – how about those
Garden of Eden sweet fruits on the antipasto table? A taste adventure, yes?”
I
was trained not to shout across a room; in fact, Lillian warned me never to
shout at all. I walked to Dolly’s table, also occupied by bemused Dr. Ron
Dorris and wife Carole and Drs. Ivan Green and wife Noreen, to answer her,
ignoring her questions: “The sparkling wine, Dolly, the RJR Brut Cuvée
sparkling wine, that’s your taste adventure. Who needs the Garden of Eden
whatever or France’s purse punishing Champagne at easily twice, three times,
even four times, Westport’s $17.99 price?”
Dolly
tossed her head disdainfully, “Should have expected an argument from you!
Still the contentious, disagreeable, know-it-all-Julian. Don’t both bother to
come over again.” (Here we agreed. I had no intention of speaking and
disputing with her this evening.)
Second
course: Ricotta cheese gnocchi pillows tossed with chanterelle, lobster and
miatake mushrooms, finished with a light walnuts essence. Tasty with Rosé of
Pinot Noir 2000, $7.99, the gnocchi was a tad too salty for my delicate taste
buds. My exception must have been a minority opinion inasmuch as I observed only
empty platters being carried to the kitchen; nor would I have refused seconds.
I’m
not a rosé devotee, but the strawberry and roses bouquet and flavor resonated
with me; its price with my parsimonious pocketbook. I delightedly sipped – no,
I quaffed – its excellent fruit with its balancing acidity, smooth texture and
swallow. It’s a simple wine, unpretentious, but not an anemic white zinfandel
blush style. Bill Russell, Westport’s entertaining winemaker, described the
wine as, “100 percent pinot noir, a dry rosé made from the heavier pressing
of the juice used in the RJR Brut.” No argument from me.
Third
course: banana blossom salad. Ah, here was novelty and delicious dining at its
best! First time in my octogenarian long life of dining have I tasted anything
like it: shredded green papaya, banana blossom and steamed organic slightly
smoky chicken pieces, with toasted cashews, tossed in a sweet-edged Thai
vinaigrette – my fears unfounded that the vinaigrette might be inimical to
succeeding wines.
Accompanying
wine: Johannisberg Riesling 2002, $11.59, off-dry, fresh, clean, crisp, lean,
lively, sweet/steely acid balanced --
reminiscent of a German Kabinett Riesling. Nose and palate-full of melon,
honeysuckle, floral, peach, with smooth glycerin texture; round and full with
persistent aftertaste.
None
other than Dr. Bob Ouellette, black belt palateer, who a week before had
lectured on German wines, sought out winemaker Russell and congratulated him on
the wine -- an accolade of the highest level. No one in my view refused generous
second pours.
Although
somewhat surfeited now from the generous portions of preceding courses, I
eagerly awaited the fourth course: Alaskan black sea bass fillet, pan-seared,
but so tender and moist that I whispered to Lu Ouellette, “This must have been
poached, my favorite fish preparation.”
Lu,
a talented chef in her own right, nodded, smiling – I don’t know whether the
enigmatic Mona Lisa nod and smile were for agreement with me. No matter, the
slight kiss of black pepper’s lips on the bass added fillip to the favor, and
my persnickety palate slowly savored every last morsel.
I
felt myself smiling my contentment as I sipped the Estate Classic Chardonnay
2001, $11.99, elegant, crisp, clean, zesty. Its subtle off-dry sweet edge had me
confused: its taste of ripe fruit, creamy texture, toasted oak, and perfect acid
balance seemed so similar to the preceding Riesling that I asked for another
pour of the Riesling to compare…A similarity yes, but ever so slight. I
enjoyed alternating both wines with the fish; each wine added complexity to the
fish. Just a great entrée! Great stuff going on in the kitchen this evening –
and I was told it is that way always, not just for this dinner.
The
Restaurant’s notes on the delicious dinner-concluding dessert is too esoteric,
defying coherent description by me. Reading the menu: “grilled pears finished
with a Balsamic rose petal syrup.” I didn’t taste “grilled,”
“Balsamic,” “rose petals,” “syrup.”
I
did taste, however, what seemed a delicious baked sweet pear half under a scoop
of rich vanilla ice cream, drizzled with chocolate, and piqued with a nuance of
intriguing black pepper… And I’ll take it that way anytime, just as I am
describing it!
Westport’s
signature wine in my book of American grown sparkling wines: Imperial Sec 1999,
$23.39, a crisp off-dry Riesling grape bubbly, a mélange of lively ripe fruit
with hints of citrus, melon, peach and orange blossom aromas and tastes,
beautifully balanced, and lively in the mouth. A wine you can’t stop sipping,
it perfectly paired with the dessert.
The
culinary artistry at The Restaurant at Union Station is elevated to the temple
of gourmet gods for its exciting, innovative, imaginative dining and is another
excuse to keep top drawer dining here, in little old Worcestertown. Fie, on
Boston, Providence, and all points north, south, east, west…and above and –
ugh! -- below!
Kudos
to Vince Cosgrove and Ritchie Fischer, chefs; the pulchritudinous female
waitstaff, United Wines’ rep Nick DiCarlo who help orchestrate the dinner,
Austin Liquors, host wine shop; and mine host Joe Petrou. All provided a
superlative evening of dinning.
Wine
Pick: Toasted Head Chardonnay 2002, $15. Enjoy the “sur lies” aromas and
flavors and aging in charred-head barrel, augmented by apricot, vanilla,
tropical fruits, spice, toasty oak, with a subtlety of caramel. A biggie with
14.5 percent alcohol; the price is right on!
Wine
Pick: Victor Hugo Petite Sirah 1999 (grab any vintage available!) $18. A
full-mouthed wine loaded with perky berry spice, complex with hints of butter,
tobacco and oak; magnificently balanced with fruit acids and unobtrusive tannin;
smoothly structured and forever lingering after the swallow.
Wine
Pick: Robert Mondavi Sauvignon Blanc “Stag’s Leap” 2001, $23. Aged seven
months in French oak barrels, Mondavi again delivers complexity and vibrancy;
aromas and flavors of citrus, apricot, melon and tropical fruit, accented with
mineral, toast and floral notes, make it near impossible to stop sipping.