by Julian Schultz
julian@oxfordwineroom.com
I was studying Dr. Bob Ouellette's listings of wines we would taste at Worcester Wine Tasters and Les Compagnons des Bons Vins meetings beginning this fall. What, no Burgundies? In previous years we always included Burgundy wines in the tastings. Could it be that Dr. Bob remembered our disagreement a few years ago over his selecting a 1978 vintage for one of our meetings? I had protested that Burgundies vinified from fickle red pinot noir and fragile white chardonnay grapes were over the hill, the wines would be drying out.
I admitted that time was when red Burgundies were slow maturing and age-worthy, some requiring 30 years aging to achieve optimum drinkability. In the mid '70s, however, at the advice of accountants, winemakers lightened their wines for more immediate drinking and quicker sales, increasing their inventory turnover that requires less borrowing from banks.
I teased my good friend, retired anesthesiologist and pain clinic director, Dr. Bob: "You've got to be bonkers if you believe that the 1978 vintage Burgundies are better drinkable in 2001 than earlier. No way! I won't attend the September tasting and you will risk tar and feathers, first for storing these wines for 23 years and then for pouring these once great, now feeble, oldies.
Hell, no, I won't go! I refuse to waste an evening with futile, frail, feeble, fragile, fruit-less Methuselahs.
So I thought and, not so unlikely, I thought wrong. I should have known better than to contradict Dr. Bob, especially about Burgundy wines. He had reached the summit of accomplishment in the Chevaliers du Tastevin, world-renowned Burgundy wine organization, as founder and Grand Senechal of the New England Chapter and Delegé General of the Northeast Region.
Five words changed my mind: "Oh, Fifi Fluttereyes is coming," Bob said nonchalantly, followed with a chuckle.
Dr. Fifi was Bob's anesthesiologist associate; he had invited her to other Burgundy tastings, where she and I always sat across from each other and always agreed in our wine evaluations: When she saw we might disagree, she would make with the eyes and shimmy with the shoulders; undone, I could only nod in agreement. If she weren't so drop-dead dazzling, she would be a real distraction to me.
Hearing that Fifi would be attending, wife Lillian said promptly, "Well, I'm not going! I can't stand your simpering and slobbering over her. And I haven't forgotten your dumb statement to the group last time she was here: 'If she were leaning low over me, giving me anesthesia, bountiful bosom billowing, I wouldn't go to sleep.' I was so embarrassed."
My pleadings, my promises that I would have eyes and ears only for my lovely Lillian didn't soothe her still-rankled feelings: "You ignored me, treated me like I was chopped liver the way you gushed over her."
"I love you and I hate chopped liver," I said. "Chopped liver makes wine taste like iron. So I couldn't treat you like chopped liver...because I love you."
"Like chopped herring then," she said, her lips set firm.
"I love you and I hate chopped herring," I said. "Chopped herring makes wine taste like vinegar. So I couldn't treat you like chopped herring...because I love you. I'm only interested in writing a wine column about the aged wines and give Bob the zinger for foisting over-the-hill wines on us."
"If you mean, give him the finger in print, or in any other way," she said, "don't...you...dare!"
"All right, I won't give him the zinger or the finger in print, but I'll respectfully question his judgment in offering 23-year-old Burgundies, including two whites yet!"
Well, I, Smart Alec Julian, deserved the finger.
Fifi enthusiastically weighed in on the evaluation of the wines. About Fifi, however: Fifi is a sweet intelligent person who knows her wine, but gets her kicks by being contentious. She will exuberantly argue from an opposite position taken by others in a wine discussion although not necessarily or totally subscribing to her statements. Her purpose, she confesses, is to keep the tasting or the wine dinner spirited - "Heaven forbid it should be boring with all 'yeses' and 'I agrees' and 'me toos'. Let's keep it lively."
Well, Fifi was at her contentious best. She slashed with bizarre comments about the wines and challenged our objectivity, emphasizing her statements forcibly to drive her "convictions" home: "Admit it! Our mind set this evening is chivalrous; we are paying homage to these grandes dames whose days of drinkability are in the yellow leaf, whose aromas and flavors must being fading or are already resting in peace."
She continued: "What's in a name? This LaTache, this Richebourg, would not smell so sweet or taste so terrific were they labeled Gallo Hearty Burgundy. No, we are judging them on what they were, in their glory days, not on what they are now."
She thought a while, then: "Speak not to me of names old and hoary, the days of our youth are the days of our glory; and the myrtle and ivy of sweet two and twenty are worth all their garlands though ever so plenty. That's from Byron and that's what we are about to do here."
I was dubious and made a pained face when Fifi looked to me for confirmation. She began to make with the eyes and shimmy with the shoulders. It didn't take long for me to nod my agreement...well, yes, sort of, reluctantly. So much for my fragile strength of resolution sicklied over by Fifi's seductive drop-dead femininity.
Bob had heard enough: "We're here to taste and judge some of the world's premiere wines from my temperature-controlled cellars. We're not here to listen to Byron, Shakespeare and other literary classics. I'm afraid that Fifi is spending too much time in Julian's company. Next time, I'll have them separated. Now...let the judging begin!
MEURSAULT. Fifi: "in the autumnal beauty of its years, wistful, sad; it's for us to weep for its charm of 15 years ago; still drinkable. Baffling staying power."
Julian: "voluptuous in its feminine maturity; all its once youthful sharp acid edges are in perfect compatibility with rich vanilla, green apples, butterscotch and wood characteristics, some nuts."
Fifi looked hard-eyed at me, not friendly; didn't make or shake.
BATARD-MONTRACHET. Julian: "gold color indicating age; some slight maderization showing sherry nose and taste; may appeal to British palates favoring wines starting their descent."
Fifi: "Humph! Probably cost $150, 10 years ago; I wouldn't pay $l.50 for it; drying out. Masochists who enjoy self torture would relish it."
Bob: "Fifi, I have four bottles left in my cellar. How many do you want at $1.50 each?"
Fifi: "I'll take them all!"
Bob: "A-ha! Donna e Mobile. Women are fickle."
Fifi: "No! Not for me. I will donate them to the Smithsonian Institution."
COTE de NUITS VILLAGE. Fifi: "wouldn't have believed a lowly Nuits Village hadn't croaked yet; fermented cherries, muddy soil, complex smoke intertwined. Arresting, interesting, charitably drinkable." Bob looked inquiringly at me. I nodded in agreement, although I murmured it was rather light on the palate.
VOSNE-ROMANEE. Julian: "hints of smoke, leather, cherries; like life itself is ripened and ripened and ripened; now it rots and rots and rots. Drink up now before death's gathering winds carry it to that undiscovered country from whose destination nothing returns."
Fifi: "Bob! There he goes again with that cockamamie Shakespeare stuff! So don't blame me."
CORTON HOSPICES de BEAUNE. Fifi: "complex; cherries, smoky leaves, earth, compost, fruit/acid/tannin in balance; lean, austere, even delicate; still musters feeble strength to wobble upright and heroically try to carry on."
Julian: "Agreed. I am surprised because Beaune reds are generally softer, mature faster than Nuits. I wouldn't have thought it could still drink so successfully. But not for very long."
CLOS VOUGOT. Julian: "smells and tastes like sodden straw, moist soil; let it rest in peace." Mostly voices in concurrence; a few who ate some cheese and crusty baguettes and resumed tasting, disagreed and invited us to do likewise.
RICHEBOURG. Fifi: "best wine so far by far; nutty, rich earth, tea-like, woody nose; zaftig (round and soft), with nutty, leathery, complex fruited flavors; seductive: kisses back when you put it to your lips; embraces, but beginning to let go." Bob, his eyebrows raised in surprise and consternation, inquiring, looked to me for comment:
"I agree with what I think Fifi said/means. Only the 'seduction,' 'kisses,' and 'embraces' are somewhat unfathomable and questionable."
Fifi: "That's baloney, Julian!" You write much more revolting romantic stuff than this! What about romping with nifty naked nymphs in the underbrush that you wrote about in a recent column?"
LA TACHE. Julian: "ten years ago it was a smorgasbord of mushrooms, violets, cassis, vanilla, toast, smoky chestnuts, roast beef; but not quite so thrilling this evening, although eminently acceptable and drinkable."
Fif summed up the tasting: "These wines are in a time warp of longevity. They should have expired 10 years ago. But tonight they gasped their last breaths on respectful and grateful palates. I hope my caustic comments did not imply otherwise."
Wine Pick: Genesis (by Hogue Cellars) Cabernet Sauvignon 2001, $17.
Looking for complexity in wine drinking and for economy in wine buying? Here it is: rich flavors from the cab, smooth mouthfeel from Cabernet Franc, structure
and added complexity from Merlot, richness from Syrah, and fruit and spice from
Lemberger. So enjoy the cherry, cranberry and vanilla aromas and flavors integrated with toasty oak and nuance of bell pepper; aged in new and seasoned
American and French oak for one year.
Wine Pick: R.H. Phillips Merlot 2002, $11. In new screwcap bottle, a blend of
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Petite Sirah, and Petite Verdot for complexity. Enjoy layered flavors of strawberry and raspberry, accented by spicy
oak and subtle flavors of roasted coffee; soft tannins, smooth swallow, lingering
aftertaste; aged a year in French and American oak. Big bargain.
Wine Pick: Menage a Trois California Red Table Wine 2002, $12; a blend of
Zinfandel, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon; a delightful flavor experience with ripe jam-like fruit, saucy tease of blackberries, black pepper, nutty oak and
varied spices; forward, spicy and soft; a delicious combination with grilled meats or chicken. Excellent price/quality value.
NEXT WEEK GREAT ITALIAN WINE DINNER AT WEBSTER HOUSE!
Dr. Bob reported the trial dinner was a knockout! Food was great,
wines were great, food and wines matchups were perfect.
The dinner.
Welcoming wine: Pinot Grigio
Appetizer: Mixed Antipasto with Trebbiano d' Abruzzo
Pasta: Montepulciano d' Abruzzo
First Main Course: Chicken Breast, shiitake mushrooms, shallots, sage, Marsala wine, orzo primavera; Sauvignon Blanc
Second Main Course: Charbroiled Tenderloin marinated with balsamic vinaigrette and rosemary, roasted potato, green beans; Ciferette (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Montepulciano) and Sapera di Sole (Cabernet Sauvignon)
Dessert: Neapolitan Webster House style with fresh fruits and almonds
This dinner will be another sellout; it's next Wednesday, the 22nd, at 6, $70 inclusive. Please phone 508 - 757 - 7208 immediately. Space is limited.
Hope to see you there. Julian
Email Comments to Julian at:
julian@oxfordwineroom.com