by Julian Schultz
julian@oxfordwineroom.com

                     

As I inspected the bottle of Fairview Viognier 2003, $14.99, at the Webster House Restaurant's wine dinner with the wines of South Africa, I was transported back to Egypt, World War II, and the Payne Field desert air base 20 miles outside of Cairo, 60 years ago.

I had invited nine guests to our Officer Club party, members of the South African army. One was a captain psychiatrist, second cousin to my late beloved Lillian; another was a charming first lieutenant nurse who, incidentally, introduced me to the poems of Rupert Brooke: I memorized many of them; one I hope to quote to myself on my deathbed.

...I hadn't thought to show this poem but, forgive me, here it is - and here I go again: Julian, ever the romantic, ever the sentimental, ever the emotional: 

"Only at length, dear, when the Great Day ends; when love dies with the last light, and the last song has been sung, and friends all are perished, and gloom strides in the heaven: then as alone I lie, mid death's gathering winds, frightened and dumb, sick for the past, may I feel you suddenly there cool at my brow.

"Then may I hear the peace of your voice at last, whispering love, calling, 'ere all can cease in the silence of death.

"Then may I see dimly, and know, a space, bending over me, last light in the dark...once more as of old, your (beloved Lillian's) face." 

When the dinner concluded the nine officers asked for attention: Harmonizing magnificently they sang, "Ei zigga zumba, zumba, zumba; ei zigga zumba, zumba, zei." Officers then sang alone, styling the melody to their pleasure...and for ours. They said the song was a tribal South African war chant adopted and popularized by South African soldiers.

I heard it again at Shepheard's Hotel in downtown Cairo when another officer and I were guests of Lillian's psychiatrist relative and the nurse.

We were on the veranda, overlooking the main thoroughfare. The nurse suggested that I go inside to the bar and return with "Suffern' Bastards," a mint julep-like tall drink.

South African soldiers who were stationed in Cairo proper mostly crowded the bar; others were British officers, some were wealthy Egyptians. 

As I approached the bar, a group of South Africans rose, applauded and serenaded me with the "Ei zigga zumba" chant. I had been set up by the psychiatrist and nurse as payback for the Payne Field dinner.

Wartime Cairo was exotic, romantic and glamorous, but still sinister: German spies - many of them fascinating women and grim faced men - who remained from their happier days when the German army invasion of Egypt seemed imminent.

Menacing Egyptian cutthroats, who hated and slashed at haughty British soldiers, fawned over our rollicking, lavish-spending Americans. But they mugged and rolled us when given the opportunity.

And there was good in wartime Cairo: upscale glitzy restaurants such as the Auberge de Turf that served the largest, tastiest prawns in an ambrosial tomato-based cream sauce -- the best I have ever eaten. The restaurant provided a smooth, classy orchestra for elegant ballroom dancing with André Ryder and his Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer Orchestra. The pretentious name of the orchestra evoked chuckles from the Americans.

Whenever I arrived they greeted me by playing a Chopin etude in dance tempo that was popular at the time. The restaurant was exciting and exhilarating: fashionable, attractive Egyptian women dancing gracefully with impeccably-groomed male escorts; British and American officers and Red Cross girls and army nurses convivial at the tables.

How desperately I wished for Lillian those evenings so that we could dance to the sultry Latin rhythms!

There was the Mena House, at the foot of the Pyramids that provided the longest buffet table in existence! At least 50 feet long, with varieties of exotic food as camel testicles and grain and goat meat stuffed derma. After dinner we had the option of joining a group to go up to the Great Pyramid of Giza and walk around it.

My favorite haunt was an enchanting little restaurant located on a Cairo back street, called Le Lycee. A quartet of Italian expatriates played dinner music - classical, operettas, Broadway musicals and sentimental minor-key melodies - from a balcony overlooking the dining area.

The group consisted of a violin, cello, piano and flute. I became friendly with them, and they always favored me by playing "Musetta's Waltz" from La Boheme when I was seated. I would send up a glass of Cognac for each of them.

Some memories of the war and Egypt were unpleasant. The memories I have enumerated here were pleasant.

Upon reflection I thought it odd that the Webster House wine dinner 60 years later with South African wines would relive my memories of a South African relative, a charming nurse and Egypt.

And now that I am in the winter of my life, I thank Chris Liazos and his staff at the restaurant for enabling me to enjoy a bittersweet reverie of once upon a time, of a time long ago, of a time of jaunty youth.

So, smiling and chin up, I'm back to the present and the wine dinner.

All wine prices lasted here were at O'Hara's Discount Liquors 20-percent discount.

The introductory Fairview Viognier -- not for the faint of palate with its 14.84-percent alcohol -- crisp and clean, with aromas and flavors of apricot and peach, accompanied Cheddar cheese infused with port wine, smoked Gouda, fruit of pears, apples and kiwi, and a variety of bread rounds and crackers. A superb wine with a price compassionate of the wallet and purse.

I overheard a feminine voice muttering, decrying something about the Viognier. I noted a tall, attractive, blonde young woman in black horn-rimmed glasses sipping the Viognier and pleasantly smiling.

I introduced myself and asked about her problem with the Viognier; I said it was exemplary for a reception wine.

She agreed with me, but said that was her objection: a wine of such fine quality shouldn't be poured as an introductory wine; it belonged with a fish or shellfish course.

I learned her name was Mitzi Eyc (pronounced "Ace,") a doctoral graduate student at Clark, from Potguiters Rust in the South African Transvaal country. This was her first time wine dinner in this country and was attending because the wines were from her homeland. She was familiar with South African wines, she said, and was curious about how they would fare here with their paired food.

After I briefly mentioned my experiences with South African officers in Egypt during World War II, and that I was a Clark graduate as were my late Lillian - a graduate student -- and our son, she suggested we taste together and exchange evaluations.

She observed that the Fairview Sauvignon Blanc 2004, $9.59, was properly poured before the appetizer and said to "chalk one up" for proper service, adding that it was advantageous to sip and evaluate wine prior to the influence of food.

I lauded its aromas of berries, green pepper, fig and smooth richness on the palate. She commented favorably about its "tangy flavors of grass, herbs, and soft citrus," adding she might have preferred the Viognier with the forthcoming scallop cake appetizer, prepared with scallops, ginger, lime juice, scallion and cilantro lime sauce. After having tasted the scallop cake, she said, "Now I am positive about the Viognier with this dish."

When she asked me, didn't I agree? I lied a little and agreed, not daring to admit that at the trial dinner some weeks earlier I was a party to the Viognier and reception food pairing. So much for integrity...dishonesty...whatever.

Mitzi enlightened me about the Goats Do Roam Blanc 2004, $8.79, a blend of Semillon, Chenin Blanc, Clairette Blanche, Viognier, Grenache and Chardonnay, that was matched with halibut fillet roasted in an onion sauce, with potato whipped with chives, accompanied by chive olive oil and red wine sauce.

With our first taste, we exclaimed in unison, "Magnificent!" With the inexpensive accompanying white wine it was even better, I said, and I commented on the unorthodox name of the wine.

Mitzi enlightened me: "One time at harvest time, goats inadvertently were released from their pen and roamed among the vines. As in the legend of the Yemini goat herder, whose roaming goats first discovered the joys of coffee beans, Fairview's goats picked out the best and tastiest grapes to eat. So the choice of goats inspired this wine and its name."

Second entrée: chicken breast a la Francaise, prepared with light egg and cheese batter, sauteed and presented with asparagus spears, topped with Hollandaise sauce of orange juice and orange zest.

We didn't say it aloud, but we nodded affirmatively as we enjoyed the unusual and pleasing flavors of the tender chicken breast.

Goat Roti 2003, $14.99, a blend of Shiraz (85-percent), Mourvedre and white Viognier, a 14.7-percent alcoholic biggie, was charmingly consorted to the chicken with taste tingling ripe fruit, toasty oak, and varied spices; rich mouthfeel, smooth swallow, lingering aftertaste, it did not overpower the chicken. As Mitzi observed, "A blissful marriage of lovely elements."

Third entrée: dry marinated roast rack of veal, tender medium rare in a tasty reduction sauce, with turkey bacon, chevre cheese, shredded carrot, cucumber and squash, had two partners: Goats Do Roam Rouge 2003, $8.79, and Fairview Pinotage 2003, $10.99.

Our wine palates danced for joy: the Rouge, assertive and delicious with lush fruit aromas and flavors, nuances of smoke, tobacco, black pepper, spices, was beautifully balanced and, evoking enthusiastic comment from table members, favorably accented the veal.

The Pinotage, a blend of Pinot Noir and Cinsault, with rich flavors of spicy black cherry, cinnamon, subtle oak and soft tannins, reminiscent of a fine Burgundy, along with the maturity of a superior Rhone, was a revelation to me; but not to Mitzi, a favorite of hers:

"This wine is well-known and well-regarded by us in South Africa. Cinsault was vinified in the 1920s by crossing Pinot Noir with Cinsault; Cinsault is a variety used in - and typical of good Rhone Hermitage wines. We usually refer to Cinsault as 'Hermitage,' thus the derived name 'Pinotage.'

"Pinotage may be vinified in a number of styles: young and fruited like Beaujolais; deeply rich like Rhone or a Zinfandel, or elegant and rich like Bordeaux. Fairview Pinotage 2000 was rated as the top-scoring South African red with a score of 91.

"As Pinotage becomes better known in your country with other excellent examples, Julian, look for increasing interest and, sadly, increasing prices."

Mitzi commented on my constant note taking, asking if I were doing this preparatory to buying the wines. She showed surprise and a trace of respect when I replied that I write wine columns for the Oxford Wine Room (www.oxfordwineroom.com). I added that the prices of the wines we had tasted this evening were exceptionally price-quality valued.

Dinner ended with Helena Liazos' classic blackberry and cheese Napoleon: cheese mousse, fresh blackberries and blackberry sauce, between feather light powdered pastry leaves.

Chris walking by, said facetiously, "Well, Julian, no pork tonight."

Mitzi questioned Chris's remark. A table member said that Jews and Muslims cannot live with pork. 

Mitzi added brightly, "Nor can I live with them." The table became silent. I quietly ignored her.

"Did I say something?" Mitzi asked, aware of the embarrassed silence at the table.

I said, yes, and continued eating and scribbling.

"Please, I must have committed a faux pas. What was it?" Mitzi clutched my arm.

"I'm Jewish," I said simply...and continued eating and scribbling.

She gasped, wiped her eyes and blew out her nose into her handkerchief. Almost sobbing, she said, "I've spoiled a lovely evening for myself and for you, and I have embarrassed the table. To apologize now doesn't condone my stupidity, my trying to be witty with a remark meant in jest. We Boers living in the Transvaal regrettably are only too familiar with racial prejudice...It is time for me to leave, I must prepare for my doctorate orals."

She leaned over to me, kissed my cheek and murmured, "I'm just so sorry. It was unconscionable of me. Please...please forgive."

I did.

The wine dinner, also celebrating the Webster House's 70th anniversary, was another in the long unbroken continuity of successful Webster House wine dinners. David Bove of Vineyard Brands was the spirited and informative wine commentator who held our attention. He solicited and answered questions of the guests. Waitstaff of Debby Byrne and Ann Robert and chef John Hammerstrom and his kitchen staff were instrumental to the triumph of the dinner.

And restaurant manager Ann Jo-Ann Woupio, who ensures that my dining idiosyncrasies will be followed, was everywhere at once, ever solicitous of our pleasure with the dinner.

Wine pick: Summer's acommin' and the drinkin' is easy with playful, perky, frolicsome and mischievous wines. So pick up Ménage a Trois White Table Wine 2004, around $10, a blend of Moscato, Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc: rich, firm, wild, exotic, soft, exhilarating, supportive of the palate with lime and fruit cocktail flavors.

Wine pick: The same with the Red Table Wine, same year, same price, a madcap blend of Merlot, Syrah and Gewurztraminer: raspberries, strawberries, lychee nuts and flowers. Treat your palate to a flavor carnival and enjoy the good living.

 Email Comments to Julian at:
julian@oxfordwineroom.com