by Julian Schultz
julian@oxfordwineroom.com
…at the Webster House, where I renewed
my pleasure with his wines – five of them that accompanied five delectable
food courses.
I shall call back
yesterdays and bid time return: I’ve tasted Rodney Strong wines any number of
times at wine dinners since the first time many years ago. Each time it evoked a
nostalgic bittersweet reflection of happier times, times when my normally calm
and composed beloved Lillian exhibited uncustomary fervor. I remembered,
especially, the second time when we were to meet Rodney Strong, to listen to his
comments and to taste his wines. My Lillian was agog with excitement:
“What?! Rodney Strong and his wines again at another wine dinner? Make
the reservation…now!” Lillian’s eyes glowed with anticipation although she
didn’t drink wine. I was beset by the green-eyed monster, jealousy.
“I’m baffled,” I said. “You dislike wine, won’t even sniff
it.”
“Don’t you remember,” she asked, “when we met Rodney at the
Castle five years ago, when he sat beside me? How charming he was – so urbane,
so worldly, so esthetic, so erudite, so charismatic and so artistic-looking with
his shock of white hair? How fascinating he was, discussing his ballet years in
America and France! He’s always been in our hearts.”
Was this my Lillian speaking; my practical, objective, realistic,
Lillian; my Lillian, blasé, ever devoid of maudlin emotion?
Yes, that green-eyed monster, jealousy, took possession: “Well, he’s
not in my heart.” I said, grumbling. “All I remember is that he told
us why his wines are so good and that they’re a great value for the money.”
“Dear, you’ve got a good memory, but a short one,” Lillian said,
laughing. “Remember how impressed you were when he recited to you his credo
for good wine writing?
“ ‘If what you write it tedious to you, it will be boring to others;
“ ‘Lie at little if you must, to tell the truth more interestingly;
“ ‘Never write technically, unless you intend to anesthetize your
readers;
“ ‘Write simple words to ensure communication;
“ ‘The only writing that is any good is what you make up, what you
imagine;
“ ‘Wine can be dissected as a frog can, but the thing dies in the
process;
“ ‘Use short words, even four letter words, short sentences,
verb-less
sentences on
occasion, single word sentences for force;
“ ‘Above all, don’t take yourself seriously: pompous writing is
deadly.’
“Why don’t more winery PR people and wine writers employed by wine
periodicals, follow these principles? And at times, dear, despite my editing,
which you change unbeknownst to me, you likewise are guilty of writing purple
prose and using excessive verbosity.”
The green-eyed monster had heard enough: “From now on you’ll attend
wine dinners hosted only by winery shelps and glomps.” After a lifetime with
Lillian, I didn’t need to compete with Rodney Strong types.
“Well, dear,” she said, laughing, “who will be your designated
driver, and who will be giving you input for your columns, and who will edit
your columns? Better face it, dear – you need me!” Lillian was resourceful
as usual. I backed off.
Strong had been a celebrated ballet dancer and choreographer in New York,
had performed with the world-renowned Balanchine; later he danced, created and
directed stage shows at the famed Lido and Folies-Bergere in Paris.
“I started dancing at 15,” he said. “The discipline was relentless,
required my practicing five hours every day in addition to my studying to
maintain high academic grades.” He added, “I knew my success in ballet would
not extend much beyond 10 years, so I became involved with winemaking in
California after my four years in France. There I learned about wine and the
opportunity it afforded for a vocation.”
That was then; now returning to today: I have lived too long and have
seen too much to be in awe of anything or anybody, except Lillian; but I was so
impressed, remembering Strong and Lillian’s comments, that momentarily I
forgot my purpose for coming to the Webster House…Oh yes, to evaluate his
wines with Webster House’s always superbly prepared food. I still suffer his
presence, however, albeit in memory. He had so charmed Lillian that even today I
feel diminished.
Strong’s wines earn gold medals galore, best-of-class laurels and
awards of excellence in wine competitions throughout the country. And they also
excelled at Webster House’s gourmet wine dinner.
The dinner: Chardonnay “Chalk Hill Vineyard” 2001, $9.59, after
O’Hara’s Wines & Liquors $2.40 temporary discount, accompanied four
generous-size toasted crusted baguettes prepared with chopped wild mushrooms,
diced tomatoes, shallots, Parmesan cheese and fresh herbs complexity of parsley,
thyme and rosemary. So delicious were they that Maureen Stelmach exclaimed,
“Abort the dinner! Bring on more of these; these will suffice.” (Mine
host/owner Chris Liazos said, he needs a day’s notice if you wish to order
them.)
The chard’s perfume-y aromas and flavors of green apples, vanilla,
topical fruits – peaches emerged -- and toasty oak enhanced our delight with
the savory baguettes. What a wine/food combination! Other palateers described
the wine as “lush, mouthfilling”; “citrus, lemon, apricot;” “balanced,
clean;” “smooth swallow, lingering aftertaste.” I rated the wine straight
A, big price value. No disagreement from table companions, although one palateer
said he would have preferred that the wine were more assertive and “a tad”
drier. No big deal; he got a few frowns for his statement.
(All prices shown reflect the temporary discount. Phone O’Hara’s:
508-853-1919 or e-mail: tothewineguy@hotmail.com
to reserve your purchases.)
Sauvignon Blanc “Charlotte’s Home Vineyard” 2001, $9.59, after
$2.40 temporary discount, was poured to broiled fresh mahi-mahi (dolphin) and
chopped greens with papaya and citrus salsa of honeydew and cantaloupe, among
other tropical fruit flavors.
A variety of descriptors of the wine were heard around the table with
some unusual confusion and disagreement. I discerned a flowery nose of big fruit
and sweet grass: pineapple, apples, green grapes and pears; proper balance of
sweet fruit and fruit acids, pleasing swallow and fruited aftertaste. Other
palateers: “melon-y,” “herbaceous,” “citrus-y,” “crisp,”
“delicate.” To some, the wine lacked dryness and “zest.”
With some pompous
pontification, I recited the five styles of sauvignon blanc:
1.
Grassy, herbal: weedy, green bean, asparagus, herbs of tarragon,
rosemary,
oregano; most prevalent style produced.
2. Melon-y: fruit of cantaloupe, melon, pear, sometimes lemon-citrus-y, figs;
second most prevalent style produced.
3. Earthy, dusty, smoky, sometimes sweet grass; Loire and Graves styles.
4. Barrel fermented, oaky:
not characteristic of a true sauvignon blanc – more like
chardonnay,
“my poor man’s chardonnay,”
5. Slightly sweet, no oak: some residual sugar; accent on fruit;
“soft” flavors.
With some sauvignon blancs, the styles are crossed and the wines are
reminiscent of two or more styles.
The succeeding apricot chicken course was as generous-portioned as it was
savory tasting. The apricot chicken was egg battered and sauteed, and consisted
of layered flavors of apricots/sweet tart sauce, shredded Chinese style cabbage,
slivered almonds, crisp greens and black pepper nuance. Pinot Noir 2000, $12.79,
after $3.20 temporary discount was its partner. I relished my take-home half as
much the next evening.
The pinot, although faint of nose, was strong of palate with tastes of
raspberries, blackberries and cherries and subtleties of cinnamon and sweet oak;
other tasters insisted on “pomegranate,” “cranberries.” The noticeable
initially off-putting, unbalancing acidity diminished as the wine was swirled
and permitted to sit some minutes in the glass; it finished full-fruited and
elegant in the swallow and aftertaste.
The piece de resistance: mesquite grilled tenderloin, tender to
the cut of the fork, deliciously complex with sauce of barbecue and plum. Merlot
2000 and Zinfandel “Knotty Vines Vineyard” 1999, each $3.20 after temporary
discount, were blissfully married, much to the delight of an appreciative
gorrmet/palateer audience.
We had dined sumptuously – stomach-satiated sumptuously. Some of us,
more stalwart of stomach, savored the tender and delicious tenderloin to its
delectable remanent miniscule shred; others, perhaps more intelligently prudent,
had a portion of the beef boxed from later home consumption. I was among the
imprudent stalwart because, what with two wines, I was determined to consume all
– everything, to the last sip and savor! -- with unrestrained abandon…And I
was all the better for it came the dawn of the ‘morrow.
Notes on the wines. Merlot: “predominantly cherries with currants,
toasty oak, nuances of mint and chocolate, balancing fruit acids and black
pepper – super wine.”
Zinfandel: “Big wine! (Later inspection of the bottle showed 15 percent
alcohol.) Luscious flavors of berries, plums, spices, toasty wood – some
raisin jam -- balanced with black pepper, fruit acids, soft tannins.”
I observed no one refusing refills; some of us contentedly accepting
second refills.
Dessert: I begged for- and ate seconds of light, creamy tangerine flan,
made with tangerine slices and piqued with mint leaves. Congratulations to
pastry chef Helena Liazos, Chris’s wife, for showing excellent judgment with
the light dessert after so abundant a dinner.
Accolades to Rob Saunders, visiting chef; O’Hara’s Jim Vasialidis for
his enlightening comments on the wines; and waitstaff of Paul Woupio and Patty
Thomas for the hustling prompt service with the ever ready refills.
Be there to sample epicurean delights from renowned area restaurants and
fine wines from the world over.
Wine Pick: Caliterra
(Chile) Syrah 2001, $10. Blended with 15 percent Merlot for added smoothness and
softness. Aromas of tart red cherries, varied spices and soft oak transfer to
the palate and are joined by ripe tannins, velvety texture; soft, smooth swallow
and moderately long aftertaste. The price is right!
Wine Pick: Stephen Ross Dante Dusi Vineyard Zandandel 2000, $25.99.
Produced from almost 60-year-old vines, the zin is intensely flavored. Nice wood
tannins from 15 months barrel aging. Aromas of jammy red berries and spice
varieties repeat on the palate with broad soft tannin and lingering ripe
flavors. As good a zin as you’ll find.
Wine Pick: Clos Pegase Pinot Noir “Mitsuko’s Vineyard” 2000, $35.
Smoky, earthy flavors given added complexity from dark cherries and ripe
strawberries. Loads of fruit with balanced dryness and soft wood tannins. Smooth
luscious swallow continues into forever farewell. One of the better West Coast
representations of this fickle grape.