by Julian Schultz
julian@oxfordwineroom.com
It was the best of wine dinners; it was the worst of wine dinners. The
wines and most food courses were the best of wine dinners; the searing spiced
Spanish beef sausage was the worst in wine dinners, burning the palate in two
courses with the hottest, the fieriest, the most scorching, the most gut-searing
heat.
What was talented Chef Joan, usually so impeccably on target in her food
preparations, thinking when she substituted a U.S. Steel burning furnace Spanish
beef sausage, a weapon of digestion destruction, for our trial-dinner mild Spanish
beef sausage? Was it – to paraphrase from Shakespeare’s Macbeth – her
vaulting talent o’er reaching itself and falling upon the other…misfortune?
Joannie,
The Spanish bean soup wasn’t broke at our trial dinner! So why did you unfix
it? And why were you compelled to deliver a coup de grace by introducing
it into the paella, which wasn’t even in the trial dinner? Julian’s
under-the-tongue nitroglycerine tablets, one each hour for three hours, and
sleep-deprived night want to know.
OK,
enough of my boo-hooing. We’ll go to the happy stuff: The best of wine
dinners.
The
sold out wine dinner with six Spanish wines and authentic Spanish style cooking
was hailed unanimously (yes, that includes me but with my personal exceptions)
as superlatively successful, continuing the Webster House’s series of
imaginative and innovative dinners.
For
purposes of orientation, I’ll review what Spanish wines are all about:
Latching onto Spanish wines these days is a superb idea, really a “must”
imperative. Today the tremendously improved quality of the wines and the paradox
of their comparatively low prices implore the savvy connoisseur to stock up,
especially on the long-lived reds.
Moreover,
the reds can be extraordinary with food, sometimes creating wine and food match
ups that cannot be duplicated by other red wines in the world. Witness how
magnificently the two reds in our Spanish wine dinner paired with the paella,
despite the devilish heat of the afore-decried sausage, and with the grilled
Spanish style tenderloin steak.
Reception
white wine of Cuevas de Castila Reuda Cuvee Reserva 2000, a price/quality
“steal” at $7.99 (after O’Hara’s 20-percent discount; the discount is
reflected in all prices shown here), a blend of Verdelho, Vieura and Sauvignon
Blanc, quickly elevated our spirits, stimulated enthusiastic stand around
conversation and evoked requests for refills; the latter were graciously given
by Jeff Ghertler, M.S. Walker sales rep who also discussed the wines to rapt
ears as he poured.
My
notes: “zesty dry sweet-edged Riesling style, profusion of tropical fruit:
melon, lemon, lemon and lime, papaya, grapefruit rind; light, refreshing, smooth
swallow, balanced fruit acids.” Enjoy it with easy spring/summer fare: soufflés,
cheeses, chicken kabobs, fish/shellfish, mildly seasoned cold cuts…or just sip
away and savor. This wine is one helluva price bargain for purse and palate! I
rated it high in the 80 to 89 category, a very fine wine, with a very fine
flavor interest, with a very fine balance and finish and with an exceptionally
fine price.
Appetizer:
Tapas (hors d’oeuvres) of blue cheese tortas, sweet crunchy sliced apricots
wrapped in prosciutto (corned beef for me and for non pork eating Muslims),
imported brown and black olives. Perhaps the tortas could have included a tad
more cheese.
Perfectly
paired with it was Castell Del Remei Planell 2002, $8.79, a blend of Sauvignon
Blanc and Viura that bathed the palate with big melon, ripe apple fruit, mineral
and earthy limestone accents; with the paired tapas it was necessarily drier
than was the Rueda Cuvee RS sipped “neat.” The pairing was so perfect it
redounded to- and elevated the wine. I rated it also in the high 80s category
and would recommend it with spinach/feta cheese and turkey pitas, with broiled
scallops and with steamed shellfish in a piquant white sauce; I plan to prove
these recommendations to myself at the Webster House; I know I won’t be
disappointed. An obvious first class price value wine at $8.39.
And
comes now the Spanish white bean soup with Sherry, kale…and the abominable
Spanish sausage. The soup, so delightful with its varied, hearty, zesty,
assertive flavors at the trial dinner, was knocked out cold by the savage
sausage, as I and were other palateers who furiously fanned their palates and
desperately gasped for air. …And this savage spicy sausage substitution added
to my palate of discontent -- made it worse -- because it wasn’t necessary. I
ate some soup but dared not try to finish it.
The
red Castano “Hecula” 2002, $10.39, made from old vines Mourvedre, was
aggressive with superb big fruit and varied deep spices, and with texture and
tannin in balance. Confident at first, it valiantly fought for
wine-and-food-pairing accommodation with the menacing searing Spanish sausage in
the soup. It lost, dropped its palate-pleasing weapons and ran like hell for
safety.
Make
no mistake: This is a fine red wine at a bargain price for its premium quality,
and is a “keeper”: will improve for the next five years and will last an
additional five to ten. It will match successfully with well-seasoned meats, but
not with meats lethally spiced.
The
sweet young girl, wearing a corsage of roses, approached our table, accompanied
by an embarrassedly smiling young man. She asked to confirm that I was Julian
Schultz, having been married to the former Lillian Newfield.
When
I nodded yes, she said her grandmother, Birdie Cullen, was a classmate friend of
Lillian’s at Classical High School. She was Sally Kett, married just a few
days ago to the head-hanging, embarrassed, blushing Warren Kett.
She
said her grandmother read in one my wine columns on www.oxfordwineroom.com that
Lillian had died a few years ago. She said “granny” told her to convey her
condolences if she should see me at the wine dinner.
Sorrowfully,
almost in tears, she said she knew how sad I must be to have lost a beloved
wife, a companion, a partner of so many years and to be now so alone without
her. When I said that, yes, for 59 years our love constituted a lifetime of
happiness and that I wished the same long happiness for her and Warren, she
began to weep. Large size drops slowly rolled down her sweet youthful cheeks.
I
tried to comfort her when I said, “Don’t cry, my friend, what ever you do.
Don’t cry for me because I am alone. All my memories are happy tonight, for I
have had a love of my own…” I choked up, and added, “Such as you and
Warren have tonight; and may God bless you with the same always.”
More
big tears from her, some not quite stifled from me.
The
white wine Albarino Pazo de Senorans 2002, $18.39, was being poured prior to the
first entrée, monkfish Barcelona style: smoked monkfish with chopped cherry
tomatoes, scallions, Sherry, shallots and sliced sweet red peppers.
The
moist, tender fish with its Sherry wine and varied vegetable accompaniments were
Chef Joan at her vintage best. Prepared delicately, its flavors subtle and
perfectly balanced with its plate companions and the Albarino, the food and wine
combination renewed our enthusiastic comments. Happy eating was here again.
Notes
on the Albarino: “big dry fruit; lively, zesty fruit acids balanced with
layered tastes of pear, honeydew, lemon – intriguing mineral undertone here;
gracefully smooth on palate, complex; reminiscent of Alsatian Riesling; its
steadfast flavors not wiped out by preceding aggressive Mourvedre red wine.”
Perfect to enjoy with fish, shellfish, chicken, nutty dry cheeses, lamb shish
kabobs. I rated the Albarino in the mid-80s.
Followed
now two red wines that pleased me as much as my favorite Spanish wines: El Seque
Las Laeras Reserva 2002, $19.99, blend of Mourvedre, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot
and Syrah, with the paella; and Bodegas Roda Reserva II Rioja 1999, $21.59,
consisting of Tempranilla and Garnacha, with the grilled Spanish style prepared
tenderloin steak. Both wines stand shoulder to shoulder with my Vega Sicilia,
Pesquera and Teofilo Reyes, which are priced much higher.
I
rated both wines in the 90 to 100 category: “fruit-loaded exceptional wines,
fruit acids, soft tannin and velvety texture exquisitely balanced, extraordinary
layered flavors, graceful, smooth, lingering, purse friendly.”
Three
of my favorite shellfish were served: steamed little neck clams and mussels in
their shells and large tender shrimp accompanied by a variety of steamed and
sauteed vegetables and gently flavored saffron rice. I rubbed my hands in
gleeful anticipation, recalling how much I enjoyed this delicious dish at the
trial dinner.
I
eagerly bit into the vegetables; lurking below were pieces of the (expletive
deleted} searing Spanish sausage. The horizontal hair on my head seemed to stand
rigidly spiked upright; I thought my eyeballs would pop from my head. I
feverishly sipped water; then played pool with the sausage pieces, poking them
from this side of the plate and to that side, from that side to over there, to
rescue the dish and accommodate my palate with my favorite shellfish. It was to
no avail. I found it impossible to escape from the pieces. The shellfish that I
had anticipated with so much expectation was impossible for me. I could not eat
it and I sipped my wine with crusty chewy bread.
Had
chef Joan not deemed otherwise the Las Laderas, a red wine, would have
introduced complex counterpoint to the usually white wine friendly shellfish
flavors. Oh well, there was yet to come the major entrée of the
tenderloin…and I was confident all would end well with the dinner.
Did
the dinner end well? You bet it did! The tasty, tender, triumphant tenderloin
was perfection with the Rhone-reminiscent cherries, plum, vanilla, spice, smoke-nuanced,
briarwood-balancing Rioja and with the re-poured multi-fruited Las Laeras wines.
The delicious tenderloin glazed with brandied blue cheese sauce and rounded with
asparagus spears, small white potatoes and baby tomatoes dismissed my
discomfiture. I was happy and beaming again.
Dessert:
Spanish flan firmly textured with caramel sauce, whipped cream, fresh
raspberries and a sprig of mint. Delicious! Delectable! De-lovely! Diet
destructive! And I didn’t give a damn! No one dared utter a dissenting murmur.
Only
accolades resounded throughout the room as Chef Joan, who may already had
received the negative word about the sausage or sorrowfully had observed
returned unfinished food on the plates in question, with trepidation slowly and
lightly tiptoed into the room. All was forgiven. We gave her standing sustained
applause for an overall excellent dinner.
But
now I wonder, will Chef Joan try to out-season the inherently hot spicy Creole
food for the wine dinner that Chris Liazos is planning in late May? I spent time
in the backcountry outside New Orleans during World War II. I know Creole food!
We used to call it “Heartburn Express.”
As
I review the dinner, I remind myself that I have a cranky palate. My unhappiness
with the sausage and by some of the guests may well be an expression of the
minority. There are diners who insist, “The spicier the food, the better.
Bring it on! Let the seasoning’s fires soar, roar and burn!”
Wine
Pick: Midnight Cellars Chardonnay 1999, $19. Earthy nose with tropical fruits
covering the palate; some pineapple, with nuances of apples, butterscotch,
toasty wood; lively acid balance, velvety swallow.
Wine
Pick: Victor Hugo Zinfandel 1999, $19. Briary/black cherry nose transfers to
palate, adding to big plum and toasty wood flavors; balanced, crisp, dry, clean,
forever farewell.
Wine
Pick: Carmody-McKnight Cabernet Sauvignon 1998, $19. Soft bacon nose;
intermingled flavors of currants, raspberries, black pepper, hint of mint, some
cedar; soft texture; clean, crisp, dry, long aftertaste. More recent vintages
should be OK.
Email Comments to Julian at:
julian@oxfordwineroom.com