by Julian Schultz
julian@oxfordwineroom.com
Webster House’s Chef de Cuisine, Jim Lemoine, cut me off in the
middle of my request. He cheerfully
interrupted me: “Because of you Julian there will be no garlic in any of the
food tonight. But first you must agree.”
“Agree? Sure, I’ll agree to anything. Only no…evil…bulb!”
“That’s it! That’s it!” he exclaimed. “You must agree not to
discourse on the ‘evil bulb’ during the dinner or in your wine column to
aficionados who cherish this harmless, healthful bulbous herb that lowers blood
pressure and cholesterol, stiffens the –unuha – and frightens away
vampires.”
“Gee, Jim, I prefer vampires to garlic anytime and maybe, albeit
reluctantly, I will forgo the pleasure of whatever I have that garlic stiffens.
But you remind me of the chef at the Villa d’Este in Cernobbio, by Lake Como,
in Italy. He also forced my agreement if I were to be spared the powerful,
pungent perfume of that mighty odiferous seasoning that inhibits close
conversation and ardent smootching.” I related the Villa d’Este incident:
I had organized an eight-course dinner for some Sweet Life supermarket
executives and their wives and had planned for the courses to be paired with
premium French wines. That is, until I confronted the master chef. His fierce,
bushy black eyebrows quivered in anger; his nose was set in snarl at the
suggestion we pour any wines not Italian.
His insistence was peremptory: Only wines from Italy’s extensive
growing regions – from Piedmont to Sicily – would accompany the food!
Otherwise, he threatened, I could expect total saturation of the malodorous
garlic in my food. I immediately agreed! “Why…why didn’t I think of that
myself?” I said.
The Italian wines were superb and I was spared the big “G.” I was
able to kiss only my Lillian, however, and not the other ladies, as is my
custom, who enjoyed a generous share of the bulbous seasoning in their food:
Their breath reminded me of the playmates inhabiting Jurassic Park.
Now for The Webster House Italian wine dinner with six superbly matching
Italian wines: I cannot recall ever dining more enjoyably at any time, at
any place, than at this wine dinner…and that includes the world famous Villa
d’Este, playground to the European jet set.
I am constrained to say right up front: The dinner and the wines were
outrageously…underpriced! But don’t tell that to Chris Liazos, Webster House
owner, and Jim Vasiliadis, Irish-Greek owner of O’Hara’s Wines &
Liquors.
Stepping into the restaurant from the graying dusk outside, climbing up
the few stairs to the function room, I felt a rush of exhilaration: I observed
chattering gourmets excitedly sipping a Fellini Pinot Bianco-Chardonnay 2001,
$7.99, from Veneto. All prices shown reflect O’Hara’s 20 percent discount on
12-bottle purchases, mix or match.
I joined their sipping and
excitement with the wine. My notes: “range of floral to banana aromas that
include woodsy woodlands’ wisteria; dry, accessible, smooth, balanced; sighing
whispers of almond and toast; clean, crisp finish. Superior wine, super
price.” A-minus.
We were seated for the appetizer, Asparagus Pietro, of fresh asparagus wrapped with turkey bacon (for those who preferred it to the prosciutto) and provolone cheese, breaded and topped with a light anisette liqueur. Bixio Pinot Grigio 2001, $7.99, from Veneto, brokered this marriage between smiling heaven and Lemoine’s kitchen. “melon, lemongrass aromas; palate: dry, clean, crisp; green apples, sweet pear, subtle grapefruit flavors in a tightly wrapped package; medium body, silky texture.” A-minus to A.
First of the three main courses: Cheese Tortelinni with eight
tender shrimp and four meaty mussels, prepared with pink Alfredo sauce laced
with vodka. San Clemente Chardonnay 2001, from Abruzzi, $14.39, proved to be the
tortelinni’s prefect consort, beautifully balancing Parmesan and ricotta
cheese, seafood and sauce.
Now how does one describe food so magnificently prepared, so awesomely
delicious, with words that do it justice? Perhaps more eloquent than any
inadequate descriptors I might use is to say all plates that went back to the
kitchen were clean of food or that the noticeable take-home containers attest to
the generosity of the portions and the desire to repeat the food at home.
My misfortune: Cedric, the self-factiously named “The Cheshire Cat,”
from Cheshire, England, professor on sabbatical at Clark and cocksure wine snob,
sat opposite me and was constantly flaunting his knowledge to a sweet young
thing who sat beside him.
My patience ran out when he addressed sweet young thing: “And what do
you think of maceration carbonique?” he asked, as he dreamily gurgled his
chardonnay.
She rolled her pretty eyelashes and stuttered a bit. “I…I sup…I
suppose it’s all right,” she finally said, “as long as it’s done by
consenting adults.”
Cedric threw his hands up in dismay: “Oh, dear! No, no! It’s a method
often used by Italy’s winemakers whereby initial fermentation of the grapes’
juice occurs within the grapes; they are pressed later for final
fermentation, and the wines become more fruited.”
I gave a resounding “Harrumph!” followed by an angry laser beam
stare. Cedric recognized my hostility and promptly “found a friend over
there” at another table. Sullen, sniffing, he departed.
The sweet young thing moved into a seat beside me. “I’m Bonbon
Labelle. It’s my first time here,” she said, shaking her shoulders
coquettishly, thrusting upward the twin doves of her bosom.
Jim Vasiliadis, the Irish Greek owner of O’Hara’s Discount Liquors
and wine retailer host of the dinner, was discoursing on Italian wines. Bonbon
frowned: “How long does this go on?” she asked. “I don’t enjoy someone
droning on about wine all evening. It’s more fun when we socialize and discuss
the wines with one another.”
“Shhh,” I whispered. “Listen to Jim. You’ll learn something.
Don’t disturb the solemnity of other consecrated tasters who are listening to
Jim’s remarks with attentive ears and open mouths.”
Ignoring me: “Isn’t this San Clemente Chardonnay deliciously fruity
with tastes of citrus, bananas and vanilla and aromas of intermingled perfume
and smoke?”
“Shhh!” I murmured reprovingly.
“It’s got unctuous viscosity, youthful precocity, velvety smoothness
and exquisite balance,” she continued.
“Shhh, Bonbon!!” I couldn’t conceal my annoyance.
“A body like Julia Robert’s – fleshy upfront, svelte middle,
rounded soft finish.” I realized I had a compulsive kibitzer to contend with.
“Pa…lease, Bonbon!” I pleaded…although I silently agreed with her
assessment of the San Clemente.
Uncharacteristic of Jim, he issued a reprimand: “Julian, please stop
that mumbling over there. You know better than that, especially when you know
how much I enjoy listening to myself talking…and my not wanting to be
distracted!”
What to do? Fancying myself a gentleman, I couldn’t point the finger at
Bonbon, yet I dared not risk Jim’s further disapproval.
So I pinched her in the nether area.
“You oaf! How dare you!” She rose and with an in-your-face boom-boom
flounce of her hips she strode to a seat beside Webster’s beaming Don Raymond,
who greeted her with sweeping flourish and pulled out the chair for her. So I
was two-for-two in losing table companions this evening…thankfully.
Second main course was served: Osso Buco Rissoto Alla Milanese, braised
veal shank with vegetables, Arborio Italian rice with saffron and Parmesan
cheese. Wine: Refosco del Peduncolo Rosso, Patriarcala 1997, $$9.99, from Friuli,
was properly poured before the food was served.
The veal: so tender, tender, tender; oh so tasty, tasty, tasty. “I am partaking of gustatory pleasure enjoyed by gods on Mt. Olympus,” I whispered to niece, Roberta; she nodded, gazed heavenward, eyes wide with adoration.
The Refosco: “big berries macho wine leaped from the glass and tweaked my nose; palate: muscular Schwarzneggar with gobs of berries, plenty of tannin, steadfast of oak; begs for additional time to mature before opening another bottle that would be infanticide; a keeper, a bargain.” Straight A.
Third main course: Beef Tenderloin Diabolo, herb/ground peppercorn
crusted tenderloin with Jim Lemoine’s special secret reduction sauce, roast
potato, pesto creamed cheese, chopped roast red pepper and flat beans.
Wines: Barbera d’Asti Superiore D.O.C. 1997, $9.99, from Piedmont, and Rosso
di Crosta 1997, $12.79, Duchi di Castelluccio, from Abruzzi.
Barbera d’Asti: “smacks the nose and palate with big concentrated
fruit of plums and berries underlaid with nuances of wood, stewed prunes and
fermented cherries; a tasty fruit bomb packed with explosive layers of
complexity and pronounced firm tannins, but mitigated by smooth swallow and
lingering pleasing aftertaste.” A to A-plus; price value 150/100. A fat, chewy
wine that paints the mouth purple; mustn’t be dismissed – not at $9.99.
Rosso di Crosta: “embraces the palate with passion and clings to it
euphorically; whispers: ‘sniff and savor my fruit of plums and cherries that I
fondly lavish on you; I’m balanced nicely nicely with soft tannins and fruit
acids; my flavors will remain long on your palate, my perfume will linger long
in your memory. And I’m the cheapest thrill of your life for only $12.79. Take
me! I am yours! Pick me up at O’Hara’s!’ ” A-plus.
Yes, with great wines love flourishes, and everything else transpires
that is pleasant to man. So there was lots of love at Chris Liazos’ Webster
House when sipping these wines from Rudi and Sons, distributors.
Dessert: Crostata di Ricotta, internationally famous Italian
dessert. Webster House augmented the delectably different-tasting ricotta
cheesecake with slices of candied orange zest and pulverized white raisins and
blanched almonds. So awesomely delicious it was that I tried to pull an Oliver
Twist here: “Please, Chris, I want more.”
Chris’ answer: “If I give you more, I get in trouble with Dr. Bob
Ouellette.”
“Thanks, Bob, basking in sunny Florida (sarcasm here); I prefer the
risk of bellyache from over consumption than to suffer the frustration of over
denial…Gee whiz, my friend, how great of length is your influence! ”
Domenic Mercurio, wine rep for Rudi and Sons, distributor, table-hopped
discussing his wines and answering questions of the 51 guests.
Hostess Jo-Ann Woupio, son Paul, and newcomer Sean Maynard added
immeasurably to the resounding success of the dinner with their attention to our
dining needs. You guys are out-and-out great!
Wine Pick:
Errazuriz (Chile) Merlot 2001, $12. Blended with 15 percent cabernet sauvignon
for vigor and flavor complexity. Enjoy a noseful of blackberries and violets
with nuances of coffee bean, vanilla and toast accents; on the palate taste lots
of fruit with notes of black olives and roasted red peppers. Excellent drinking;
dry, clean, zesty; finishes smoothly and remains moderately long in the
aftertaste. A bargain.
Wine Pick: Caliterra (Chile) Chardonnay 2002, $10. Assertive tropical
fruits aromas with green apple, orange peel and vanilla, which transfer to the
palate with sweet-edged, lively fruit acidity; velvety texture and medium body;
smooth swallow, moderate length in aftertaste. Great value.
Wine Pick: Duchi Di Castelluccio (Abruzzi) Montepulciano d’Abruzzo
‘Riserva’ 1997, $12. Big, clean, brilliant fruit is enhanced with by nuances
of oak, green olive, woodsy spice and sweet herbs; rich and full-flavored;
lingers on after the swallow; a delight that begs a refill. Super price value.