by Julian Schultz
julian@oxfordwineroom.com
I have been tasting wines for 51 years. I have never rated a wine 100, nor have I rated 11 of 13 wines at a single tasting in the 90s:
But I did at the recent Castle Restaurant tasting of "Elusive Cabernet Sauvignons" that sommelier/maitre d' Jim Nicas organized for his monthly Sunday afternoon tasting. Jim had planned to limit the tasting to 19 people; he was pressured into accommodating 29, but still had to disappoint others because of limited availability of many of the wines.
Many oenophiles believe the deity has ordained Robert Parker with the perfect palate. I learned later that he rated many of the same wines in the 90s. Is it possible that God, too, similarly blessed me? My modesty urges me to dismiss the thought...and I do.
Could it have been the casual ambience of the Castle, overlooking Sargent Pond's golden glistening rippling waters? Could it have been the camaraderie I shared with familiar enthusiastic tasters? Could it have been the ecstatic ooohs and aaahs from rhapsodic sniffers and sippers? Could it have been the lovely Karin Orsi, seated to my left, whose charm enhanced the flavor of my wines, and later the seductive Flasher Freely? They contributed. But the wines of themselves were superb.
The wines we tasted have already earned national - if not international - accolades for being made in the classic tradition but with contemporary style to suit the palates of today's wine aficionados.
The wineries of the wines we tasted use state-of-the-art wine growing procedures, technologically upgraded winemaking equipment, and traditional French and American oak barrels. They use advanced and orthodox winemaking methods. They seek to present the best of all possible wine products and seek to afford the best all possible wine pleasure.
Their winemaking practices work. The wines of the four wineries we tasted have been highly rated in the 90-plus point category - not only by Parker (and modestly, shyly, by Schultz) - but also by national wine publications and syndicated wine writers. Connoisseurs quickly snap up the limited supplies of these wines.
My policy of rating- and writing about wines remains unchanged. Perhaps unlike many pontificating wine writers, if I don't like a wine I don't rate it or write about it. Compassionately, I have an aversion to occupying the scorner's seat and hurling the cynic's ban. Again, unlike wine writers who like to inflate their egos, feeling superior when they write authoritatively in the negative, I am content to write "feel good" wine evaluations. I do, however, consider 12 wine criteria that a wine must meet: aroma, assertiveness, aftertaste; balance (acidity, alcohol, tannin in reds, fruit, body), bite; color, complexity, concentration; dryness; flavor, fruit, finish.
The wines:
Col Solare 1997 Washington, $75, Chateau Ste. Michelle and Marchesi Antinori, blend of 84 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 13 Merlot, 3 Syrah, 19 months in oak.
Col Solare '98, $75, 67 Cabernet Sauvignon, 29 Merlot, 4 Syrah, 22 months in oak.
Col Solare '99, $75, 70 Cabernet Sauvignon, 25 Merlot, 3 Syrah, 2 Malbec, 22 months in oak.
Cardinale 1997 Napa Valley, $135, 79 percent grapes from Napa, 21 from Sonoma; 91 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 9 Merlot.
Cardinale '99, $135, 58 from Napa, 42 Sonoma; 75 Cabernet Sauvignon, 25 Merlot.
Cardinale '01, $135, 73 from Napa, 27 Sonoma; 73 Cabernet Sauvignon, 27 Merlot.
Chateau Montelena Napa Valley 1998, $110, 18-20 months in oak.
Chateau Montelena Napa '99, $126, 18-20 months in oak.
Chateau Montelena Napa '00, $126, 18-20 months in oak.
Lokoya Napa Valley 2001, $135, from Mount Veeder, 21 months in oak.
Lokoya Napa Valley '01, $135, from Diamond Mountain, 20 months in oak.
Lokoya Napa Valley '01, $135, from Howell Mountain, 20 months in oak.
Chateau Montelena Napa Valley 1980, $270, 24 months in oak.
As Jim was explaining the big demand for the wines, their relative scarcity, and their uncommonly high prices, well endowed, drop-dead gorgeous, Flasher Freely arrived, greeted me, sighed, lifted her skirt short, tight and revealing, and with a graceful twist and seductive shake slowly lowered herself into the chair to the right of me. Most of us stopped listening to Jim and ogled the Flasher.
Sitting between the warmth exuding from Karin and the Flasher, I wondered how could I ever taste the wines conscientiously when I was near transported to Paradise.
I remembered Flasher. She had attended a Castle vertical tasting of Chateau Musar a few years ago and later rode the parking lot back and forth on the high back seat of an open top Cadillac...completely exposed as Lady Godiva. Jim was surprised, dismayed...but was roundly applauded by appreciative red-blooded macho males; the milquetoasts were led by their ears back into the restaurant by disapproving wives.
Flasher had told us that she was promoting herself as a nightclub and burlesque stripper. She said, "My, err, (wink and giggle) 'charms' gained mesmerized attention and favorable notoriety when I dashed and danced, wiggled, jiggled and pranced, the 100 yards at halftime during a Patriots game, clad only in my scanty panties."
When I asked what ensued, she laughed and said, "The huffing and puffing fat-bellied police rounded me up and threw their jackets over me, and the fans in the stands booed and threw beer bottles at them - some almost hitting me. With the fans cheering and giving me a standing "O," I was taken to the paddy wagon and booked at the station by my birth name, Queenbee Throckmorton, and released. I made the papers and got offers from Boston nightclubs, burlyQ houses, and strip joints. The Whirly Girly Burly named me Flasher Freely. I even got a season ticket to all Patriots' home games."
Her chauffeur told the lineup of males where she would be performing for the next month. I asked Jim, hopefully, if she would be doing her act at the Castle. He blanched and said, "My wife Denise would exile me to Inner, Outer, Upper and Downer Mongolia without shoes, and I would be herding yaks (oxen) barefooted if I dared bring the Flasher back." He added with amusement, "I don't want to be pouring vintage yak milk wine to the natives."
The '97, the first Col Solare cab tasted, I rated 88. I thought the body rather light, but Karin quickly corrected me with the better-say descriptor "finesse." Karin is just so pretty, how could I possibly disagree? Flasher suggested that perhaps I meant "supple" instead of light body. No matter. It was too delightful an afternoon, my being surrounded by heartthrob pulchritude at either side of me.
I finished my assessment, commenting on the '97's soft nose, its slow emergence of fruit, albeit delicious when it did show itself. The swallow was smooth, the aftertaste moderately long after I "dry" swallowed (retained the wine at the front of my mouth as I swallowed, then spit it out and swallowed again dry).
In the interests of space conservation I will describe only the wines earning my ratings of 95 to 100, and the old 1980 Montelena, rated 85. The excellent 90 through 94 rated wines regrettably will be ignored. I will not comment on price value, preferring that the lucky tasters make their own determination.
Cardinale '99, $135: "vinous, berry nose; excellent balance with fruit varieties of blackberries, currants, mint, pepper; smooth swallow; moderately long-to-long aftertaste. Rated 95."
Cardinale '01, $135: "assertive, complex nose; sensational on palate with great berries, cherries, plums and spices; velvet swallow, extended aftertaste after I actually swallowed one sip. Rated 98." I rarely actually swallow wines at a tasting.
Chateau Montelena '98, $110: "vinous berry nose - raspberries? Big fruit of berries - black currants - cherries on palate, added black pepper, mint, whiff of cedar; smooth creamy swallow, fairly long aftertaste. Rated 98."
Chateau Montelena '99, $125: "perfect, perfect, perfect - nose and palate! Unbelievable! Cherries, blackberries - maybe raspberries - fruit acids, cedar, hints of varied spices, leather and chocolate all in perfect harmony, I rated it 100, first time highest rating." I really swallowed every sip, emptying my wineglass.
With Lokoya '01 from Mount Veeder, $135 and two spinach/cheese pita triangles in hands, I took a break from the tasting and walked through the dining room and out to the patio. My mood became mellow as I gazed out over the glowing green rippling waters that showed golden and platinum tints. Along the shoreline branches of the lush, tall, regal, green-leafed trees reached upward to the inverted bowl of blue sky as if in prayer.
The pleasure from the sighting, sniffing, sipping, savoring, and then speaking about the wines dissolved as I succumbed to the hushed, serene, nostalgic atmosphere of the moment. I caught my breath. For a fleeting moment I imagined my departed beloved Lillian stood beside me. The moment was hallowed, a moment split from reality, a moment of Lillian's smiling from heaven that lighted my heart's dark sky.
"I love you, sweetheart," I murmured.
"And I love you too, dear," she softly responded.
We had repeated that exchange of our love thousands of times in our 59 years of marriage. The words are already carved on our gravestone at the cemetery, just waiting for me - then for us -- to repeat again.
The remembrance of Lillian's perfume blossomed in my mind: a bittersweet reverie that I sadly tried to shake away; I returned to the tasting. I wondered if I would need an extra Paxil pill for depression this evening.
Loyoka '01 from Mount Veeder, $135: "lots of youthful, embraceable fruited wine slides up to nostrils, bathes palate with flavors reminiscent of cherries, tobacco, black pepper, hint of green olives; lively swallow; patient aftertaste. Rated 95."
Loyoka '01 from Diamond Mountain, $135: "very much like the Mount Veeder, but with added hint of zesty fruit acids and nuance of leather. Rated 95."
Loyoka '01 from Howell Mountain, $135: "impressive strongly-fruited wine balanced with slightly sharp acidity, which lessened in the wineglass; otherwise resembles the Mount Veeder. Rated 96."
The disappointing Chateau Montelena '80, $270: "no nose; fruit fading, hints of mushrooms, smoky autumn leaves, aroma of mulch or compost. Interesting to sniff and sip for educational value only. Rated a charitable 85."
The excellent 90 through 94 rated wines:
Col Solare '98, $75, rated 90;
Col Solare, '99, $75, rated 92.
Cardinale '97, $135, rated 93.
Chateau Montelena '00, $126, rated 94.
Do I suggest you buy the 90 and higher rated wines? Pay the exorbitant prices? Yes...if you have Theresa Heinz's millions or are married to someone who does; otherwise there are exceptional price values available at half these prices.
I observed tasters coming from the hors d'oeuvres tables, their plates laden with my favorite foods: Cheddar, Muenster, Blue cheeses; spinach/feta cheese pita triangles; colorful fresh fruit varieties; stuffed chicken kabobs, green/red peppers wrapped beef kabobs; hot baguettes, toasted rounds, cracker varieties.
When I tried to stand to participate at the food table and partake of the savory delicacies, the Flasher clutched my shoulder and pulled me down. I enjoyed the pressure of her hand, visualized it in the context of her enchanting body blessed haphazardly by nature...or by parental genes...or by the deity itself to titillate macho males like me.
Flasher began to hum the melody, "People Will Say We're In Love," from the musical Oklahoma. I wished it were any song but that:
The song transported me back to Memphis, TN, 1943, my first station as a newly commissioned 2nd Lieutenant in the Air Corps. Every Saturday night Lillian and I dinner-danced on the rooftop of the Peabody Hotel to Richard Himber's orchestra. We had requested he play, "People Will Say We're In Love," which he promptly did. Thereafter, when we were seated at our table, he immediately played it without our asking. Those were golden moments: We were young, married less than a year and deeply in love.
I wish Flasher had not hummed that song: Lillian had died two weeks short of three years and my heart and mind are still raw. It was too emotional for me and tears welled in my eyes. Karin and two other compassionate women tasters thought my tears were tears of frustration at my not being able to get the hors d'oeuvres.
A few minutes later the three women brought three platters to me heaped with every variety of food from the table. So much food that I took home enough to augment my three dinners following the tasting.
My heart filled with gratitude, I embraced and kissed each woman and thanked her sincerely. From Flasher: "Humph! Bush league sentiment!" I ignored her and waved goodbye to Jim Nicas and my other friends.
Wine Pick: Montevina Terra d'Oro Zinfandel, made from 100-year-old vines from Deaver Vineyards, around $30. Note powerful clove and anise aromas that swirl up into the nose with emerging ripe plum and blackberries. Rich, ripe dark berries dominate the palate complemented by allspice and cinnamon. Finish is long, with a lingering spice that remains after the fruit has gently slipped away (forgive the poetry). Price quality? 110 over 100.
Wine Pick: Victor Hugo Opulence, grab any vintage, around $23; 45 percent Merlot, 32 Cabernet Franc, 19 Cabernet Sauvignon, 4 Petit Verdot floods the palate with big fruit, berries, plums; balanced with fruit acids, soft texture, gentle tannin, smooth swallow, persistent aftertaste. Just a super wine!
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julian@oxfordwineroom.com