by Julian Schultz
julian@oxfordwineroom.com
‘Twas
twilight time during the first snowstorm of the year. The laurel and
rhododendron bushes on the back three acres were wearing a mantle of white; the
arms of the giant fir were bowed with weight; the spindly maples, tapering to
almost needle thinness high, high, above other trees seemed to implore heaven
for relief from the sharp winds that were pushing them to and fro. The
alternating murmur and roar of the winds as they swept swirls of snow across the
back deck of the house were forbidding to my one person alone.
Well, the weather was predicted favorable for tomorrow…for our annual Les Compagnons des Bons Vins catered dinner at Dr. Bob and Lu Ouellette’s house. Thinking of that with anticipation, my depression softened, my spirits lifted: Gourmand time with food varieties provided by Struck Caterers, serious palateering with varied wines that each of us would bring would afford a taste safari and a palate adventure.
Upon arriving at the Ouellette’s, no sooner had we deposited our bottles in Dr. Bob’s study than he immediately proffered a glass of Veuve Cliquot Brut Champagne to initiate euphoria. He was successful; levity and camaraderie were instantaneous.
Eagerly, I inspected the wines. Yes, as expected, they were of varied grape varietals, regions, vintages and stood at sentinel attention – like saluting our inspection. I would wait for the passed hors d’oeuvres before selecting an appropriate wine. The wait was brief: Waiter Joe Oftring (son of Holy Cross basketball great Frank Oftring) was at our elbow with shiitake mushroom over asparagus on toasted rounds (crostini). What wine to select and have host Dr. Bob pour? A puzzlement: The misery of choice.
The wines. From Bordeaux Chateaux: Figeac ’79; Palmer ’79; Lynch Bages ’79; Grand Puy Lacoste ’82; Fontbonne Agassac ’89; La Croix de Gay ’84;
From Burgundy: Chassagne Montrachet ’00 Olivier Laflaive; Puligny Montrachet ’00 Olivier Laflaive; Montagny ’00 Drouhin; Gevrey Chambertin ’96 “Vieilles Vignes” Serafin; Hospice de Nuits-St. Georges ’90 “Les Didiers”;
From
other countries: Robert Mondavi LaFamiglia Colmare ‘99 California, a Tuscan
blend of Sangiovese, Syrah and Teroldego grapes (I brought it); Heitz
“Martha’s Vineyard” ’88 California; Arrowood Reserve Special Cabernet
Sauvignon ’99 California; Mazzocco Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ’87
California; Mondavi Fumé Blanc ’00 California; Kanu Sauvignon Blanc ’01
South Africa; Benefizio Pomino Chardonnay ’95 Italy; Vogelsang Johannisberg
Auslese ’76 Germany; D’Arenberg “Dead Arm” Shiraz ’00 Australia; Veuve
Cliquot Champagne Brut non vintage.
Buzzing with excitement, the 12 males in the study extended their glasses to Dr. Bob; most of us suggested he pour a different wine. With wines-in-glasses in hand, gallant spouses brought the wines to their wives congregated in the living room. The women were fervently discussing such fascinating subjects as the fine art of drop-stitch crocheting, Zimbabwe cannibal style cooking, phantom house cleaning and obscure dusting, hand-me-down punk clothes, insolent children and rude daughter-in-laws, dirt retaining washing soaps, enviable spike style coiffeurs, hair removing shampoos and latest la-de-da somnolent movies. Had not the Patriot’s game been on TV in Dr. Bob’s study, some of our more intellectual spouses said they would have begged to be permitted to partake of the discussion.
Lightning fast it seemed, chef Glenn Gonyea prepared the food and Joe Oftring was ever at elbow. So tasty irresistibly delicious were the hors d’oeuvres that one of each would not suffice, so cavalierly I opted for two. There were six – let’s see: 2x6=12. I needed at least six different wines to match, plus others that fellow Compagnons insisted I just had to try.
Now my late and beloved Lillian, who knew everything that was bad for me, would warn me: “If you eat and drink the night away, indulging yourself in stomach stuffing feasting, tomorrow – if not sooner – you will have to pay the piper. Forgive me the mixed metaphor, dear.”
How right she was: It was sooner. During the wee morning hours, big time heartburn from over indulgence wakened me from sweet sleep. I hurriedly administered to myself the tried-and-true remedy of baking soda, lemon juice and honey. Only this time it worked too well! I went through me like a rocket from NASA.
In
the midst of my discomfort, I asked myself – were all the food and wine
varieties I consumed worth this? And I answered myself: Yes, and I would do it
again. How often am I able to enjoy such delicious food and so many rare and
unusual wines?
The hors d’oeuvres: shiitake and asparagus on crostini; sweet potato pancake over turkey with maple glaze, chutney and cranberry; Maine crabmeat with mango, wasabi and mayonnaise on plain bun; spinach feta in phyllo; herb crusted tenderloin with bleu cheese over French bread crouton; chicken braised and filleted in Cumberland sauce over pumpernickel bread.
The
“serious” eating: slices of tenderloin with Parmesan/lemon and bleu cheese
dipping sauces; huge smoked salmon mousse surrounded with slices of tender lox,
sliced cucumber; varied grilled and raw crudités with two different egg plant
preparations; cracker and bread varieties. All the previously passed cold hors
d’oeuvres were available on the buffet table. There were more food selections
that I was unable to see! My eyes were glazed from the earlier wining and from
the present nibbling on each of the well-spaced hors d’oeuvres as I weaved my
way around the table, heaping high my plate.
The desserts: Fruit apple tart; chocolate torte with raspberry center and chocolate pastry cream icing; variety of chocolate bonbons, chocolate mints, bittersweet chocolate flats…And coffee and tea for the road.
Back to Dr. Bob’s study and the Patriots, alternatively cheering the good plays and groaning over the bad ones, advising Coach Belichick how better to manage his team, while we manipulated our forks with the food and raised our wines to our lips.
Followed now the customary exchange of wine preferences, rarely eliciting unanimous agreement. Perhaps the majority favorite was the Chateau Figeac from the St. Emilion region of Bordeaux, usually a blend of 30 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 30 Cabernet Franc and 40 Merlot.
Enthusiastic adherents argued for the Chateau Palmer from Bordeaux’ Margaux vineyard, a customary blend of 40 percent each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and 20 each of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, that showed great fruit and balance with a pleasing softness.
Interestingly both the Figeac and Palmer of the 1979 vintage – 24 years of age – showed absolutely no sign that senility was in their immediate future.
Refills of the Heitz and Arrowood California red wines were poured for eager Compagnons who extolled their lush fruit, impeccable balance and overall compatibility with the all of the food.
Among the white wines, the Mondavi Fumé Blanc was hands down favorite for its cleanliness, firmness, fruit, spice and herb flavors that were contained in crisp dryness.
The 1976 Johannisberg Riesling Auslese (riper bunches of grapes selected out from the vines) paired perfectly with the desserts. The ’76 vintage was exceptionally excellent and is in no way over the hill. There aren’t many bottles available to buy; Friendly Discount Liquors’ Bill Giannopoulos brought it from his personal cellar.
Among
all the wines, the drinkability of only one was questionable…and that was by
its owner. I didn’t get a chance to sample it, but I was the person who
recommended to Dr. Ron Dorris that he buy it. I find the appeal of the Benefizio
Chardonnay is in its challenging atypical Chardonnay flavor, which I find
intriguing and exciting. I do know some oenophiles who have no enthusiasm for
its taste, and I know others who, like me, like its change from the ho hum, hum
drum usual.
So what was there not to love here, especially if you prefer palate to prudence?
Struck Caterers has become our annual Les Compagnons des Bons Vins Holiday dinner caterer, providing wine glasses, napkins, decorative greens and tableware, in conjunction with delectable and imaginative food preparations. Chef Glenn Gonyea and waiter Joe Oftring orchestrated the dinner superbly. Struck Catering is located at 130 Hamilton St., 01604, Worcester. Phone: 508-755-5953.
So today is the day after. I am in mellow mood as I reflect on the event – the wines, the food, and the friendship engendered by our appreciation of wine. What most of us at the dinner have in common are wine and the compatible food that go with it.
Shakespeare wrote: “Heigh-ho! sing, heigh-ho! unto the green holly:…Then, heigh-ho the holly! This life is most jolly.” With that in mind, I heed the wise words of Persian poet/tentmaker Omar Khayyam, and I try to make the most of what I yet may spend before I, too, into the dust descend; dust into dust, and under dust to lie; sans wine, sans song, sans singer and sans end.
I remember a poem by Edna St. Vincent Millay (I think). The end of it goes like this: “…stiffen up my back to meet the yelping of the mustering years, dim trotting shapes that seldom will attack two with a light who match their steps and sing; but to one alone and lost… another thing.” I am one alone. Where would I be, what would I do, if I didn’t have the interest in wine and the companionship of wine aficionados?
Oh, well… enough of the sentimentalizing. Got to get ready for tomorrow’s trial game dinner at the Webster House with Dr. Bob; Chris Liazos, owner of Webster House; and Jim Vasiliadis owner of O’Hara’s Discount Liquors. The game dinner will be held on Wednesday, January 14, 6 p.m. More on this is forthcoming.
Wine Pick: Victor Hugo Zinfandel 1999, $18.99, has everything a zin aficionado fantasizes about. All vinous elements in sync: fruit, pepper, tannin, texture, acid, finish and aftertaste. Layers of soft, smooth fruit, reminiscent of blueberry and cherry. They don’t come any better.
Parducci Petite Sirah 2000, $11.99, a blend of 77 percent petite sirah, 20 grenache, 2 carignane and 1 syrah. Nice complexity in aromas of berries, cocoa, loam and oak toast; palate: black cherry, berry, sweet oak; nuance of chocolate in the backtaste; full-bodied, nicely balanced with fruit acids and tannins. An outstanding price value.
Woodbridge Pinot Grigio
2002, $9. Blended with chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and malvasia, it offers
fragrant aromas and flavors of pear, melon, lemon, nutmeg and cinnamon; silky
texture and dry finish result in a delightful and easy to drink wine; a fine
price value.
Email Comments to Julian at:
julian@oxfordwineroom.com