Are Older Wines Really Better?
By Peter Nelson, Owner
The Wine Bottega Boston, MA
This is one of the most common questions asked by wine drinkers, and one
that has two answers, one quite simple and the other rather more complicated.
The simple answer is this: if you like older, "well-aged," or mature wines,
then yes, older is better. If you have deep pockets, or if you have somewhat
less funds but lots of patience and suitable storage, older can be much better.
The aging process is simply the minutely (often exasperatingly) slow oxidation
of various components in wine that causes them to develop into more complex
aromas and flavors. Oxygen also works on tannins in red wines, softening them
and smoothing them. Wines become more subtle and often more delicate over time
and deliver sensory satisfaction that is more a function of flavor complexity
rather than texture.
If mature wines taste "old" or "tired" to you or if they seem to lack vibrancy,
keeping wines for too long is probably not a great idea. A young wine’s appeal
lies in its lush, ripe fruit, its full rich texture or its vivid flavors. We
often get request for "smooth" wines or full-bodied wines or light and fruity
wines. The tannins in smooth wines are already soft, having been made so by
winemaking or by the absence of tannins to begin with. Full-bodied wines derive
their texture from alcohol, the more alcohol in a wine, the fuller the wine’s
body. Wines that are both soft and full-bodied rarely have much acidity, which
is necessary for aging. Light and fruity wines have less concentration, and
while they may have significant acidity, they lack concentration and are
generally meant to be consumed over the near term.
This leads us to the more complicated answer. The above begins to suggest what
qualities are desirable in wines meant for aging. They should have plenty of
tannin. Tannins provide the framework within which a multitude of chemical
reactions can occur, enhancing a wine’s complexity. Obviously, the better the
tannin, the better the wine will be when it is "ready to drink." Acidity is
vital, as it keeps the wine "fresh," sustains its vibrant fruit character and
regulates the rate of oxidation. A wine also needs good concentration or
"dry extract," the raw material that combines in new and unique ways over
time. If you were to "freeze-dry" two bottles of wine, one costing around $10
and one costing around $100, the likelihood is that the $100 bottle of wine
would result in more "stuff" than the $100 wine.
Different wines develop at different rates with different levels of success,
and everything depends on the quality of the fruit (which is often
vintage-dependent) and the skill and intention of the winemaker. Certain grape
varieties are more "noble" than others, resulting in wines that are better
candidates for the cellar. Certain terroirs are superior; they are more suitable
for the noble varieties and impart certain unique characteristics to the wines.
Finally, some winemakers are better than others, or perhaps have set their
goals on wines capable of aging as opposed to making wines that are lip
smacking today.
In ripe vintages with the aid of modern winegrowing and winemaking, it is quite
possible to produce wines that will improve for years, but that are nevertheless
delicious upon release. How do you figure all this out?
By TASTING! This will allow you to explore the flavors and characteristics of
wines in various stages of development. At the very least you will discover whether or not
you like older wines NOW—because as you get older, your tastes change and who
knows what direction they will take.
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